Wisconsin's 'Wild Place' Is A Family-Friendly Gateway To The Apostle Islands Lakeshore With Charming Stays

Wisconsin's lake shores are made up of some of the most serene landscapes in the entire Midwest. Bordered by the great Lake Superior, the state's northernmost county of Bayfield is the perfect expression of that fact. The county (and its small city of the same name) serves as a gateway to the Midwest's most majestic collection of islands and beaches in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, a world-class stretch of sea caves, hiking trails, and jagged sandstone cliffs. The area feels like a well-kept secret, and locals and repeat visitors certainly don't mind that being the case.

But Bayfield is more than Wisconsin's "wild place," as the Bayfield County Tourism board aptly describes it. While much the county's raw natural beauty draws people in, its local breweries, lakeside restaurants, thriving art scene, and charming boutique stores equally invite them to settle in for a while. Stroll by the lakeshore to watch the sailboats glide in and out of the harbor at sunset, or meander through town past century-old brick buildings on your way to a cafe. And there's always a chance that you'll stumble upon one of the city's annual art, music, or harvest festivals. It's hard to have a bad time here, even when you're not doing anything in particular. 

Bayfield is a bit far afield, with the closest transport hub being Duluth International Airport, which is about a two-hour drive away. But that works to visitors' advantage, as getting here involves cruising along an underrated Wisconsin byway that boasts beaches, lush forests, and Great Lake beauty, stretching for 70 miles along Highway 13. And if even just arriving is a scenic adventure, you know you're on your way to something special. Here's how to make the most of a trip to Bayfield.

Bayfield may be small — the city had only 584 permanent residents in the U.S. Census Bureau's 2020 decennial census — but it's got a culturally oversized footprint. On any given summer weekend, you're as likely to hear live music echoing from an open-air tent as you are to happen across a local gallery showing regional art. The crown jewel of the town's creative scene is Big Top Chautauqua, a 900-seat blue canvas outdoor performance venue that hosts concerts and stand-up comedy all season long.

A walk through Bayfield's compact downtown yields plenty of reasons to linger. Art studios, bookstores, and cafes tuck into historic buildings, 22 of which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Restaurants like Harbor Table serve up fresh fish from Lake Superior, while The Deepwater Grille brews its own beer in an on-site brewery. The county's orchards, a local institution, come to life in late summer and early fall. Many visitors plan their trip around the Bayfield Apple Festival, held annually in early October, when more than 50,000 people descend on the city to celebrate apples in every form imaginable. Streets fill with music, food stalls, and cider tastings, and nearby farms open their doors for apple picking and hard cider flights.

And then there's the water. Visitors can check out the beautifully-maintained Bayfield Maritime Museum for a view into the area's nautical history, but if you do anything while you're here, make sure it's a guided kayak tour to see the Meyers Beach sea caves that are a part of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Weaving through the sandstone arches that plunge into the lake from the cliffs above makes for one of the most enchanting experiences you can have anywhere in the Midwest.

You won't be left wanting for accommodation options in Bayfield. The standout is the Old Rittenhouse Inn, a romantic bed-and-breakfast in a Queen Anne Victorian mansion overlooking Lake Superior. Rooms feature cozy fireplaces and whirlpool baths, and the on-site restaurant specializes in French and American cuisine. The city also features a mix of rustic cabin stays, hotels, and motels, ranging from $150 to over $350 a night during the summer. Make sure you book early if you're visiting during any of Bayfield's annual summer festivals.

Summer and fall bring the best weather and the biggest crowds, but late spring and early summer can be just as enjoyable, especially if you prefer a quieter atmosphere. Kayak tours generally start in May, and some orchards and museums reopen by Memorial Day. Apart from apples, Bayfield is known for its excellent cherries, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries. Maple syrup lovers should take advantage of the season in March and April.

Even winter has its own beauty here, as the city transforms into a quiet, snow-blanketed setting that's perfect for an introspective retreat. Snowmobiling, ice fishing, snowshoeing, and skiing or snowboarding at the nearby Mount Ashwabay are on hand for something a bit more dynamic. Whatever the season, comfortable walking shoes and extra layers to handle unpredictable spring and fall weather will come in handy. If you're kayaking, bring a dry bag and a change of clothes. More than anything, though, bring a mindset that embraces slowness. Bayfield isn't a place to rush through. But when you've soaked up the good vibes, consider heading to Sturgeon Bay, the lakeside haven full of artful boutiques and beautiful beaches that's known as Wisconsin's most charming town.