One Of Rick Steves' Favorite Towns In The Netherlands Is Called 'mini-Amsterdam' Without Crowds

Picture trees leaning over canals ebbing along cobblestoned streets lined with charming historic buildings, as bicycles trundle over little bridges. Amsterdam immediately comes to mind, but take a closer look: The canals are much narrower and older, and situated at street level, seamlessly complementing walkways instead of barging through. The paths are peaceful without jostling crowds, cannabis in the air, red-light district, rowdy revelers, or the highest tourist tax of any European city. Welcome to Delft, one of Rick Steves' favorite towns in the Netherlands, which he calls "an idyllic mini-Amsterdam ... urban Holland with training wheels" on his website, the next place he recommends to visit after the capital, if traveling the country.

Just like Steves' favorite day trips from Amsterdam, Delft is an easy hour-long train ride away, drawing tourists in search of its trademark blue-and-white porcelain, the quintessential Dutch keepsake and national emblem found in nearly every Holland home. But stay for the graceful Renaissance architecture and handsome Gothic flourishes of its medieval heart, where it feels like time has stood still since the Dutch Golden Age of the 17th century, and see why Delft is often referred to as "Holland's fairytale city" and "the prettiest town in all of Holland."

The compact historic center is a spectacular stroll, a real-life replica of the gently lit and hued tranquility that native son Johannes Vermeer portrayed in oil masterpieces of his hometown, inspiring writer Marcel Proust to proclaim the Old Master's View of Delft "the most beautiful picture in the world." As you explore squares, churches, shopping alleys, backstreet pubs, and captivating restaurants, spot and delight in public art, civic infrastructure, and even sidewalks adroitly adorned with facets of Delft Blue ceramics. 

Delft is one of Rick Steves' favorite towns in the Netherlands

Start at Markt, the core of Delft and, at almost 1,000 years old, one of Europe's vastest, most storied plazas — a symbol of the town's historical significance in trade and politics. It's also home to Delft's most magnificent and noteworthy landmarks, including Oude Kerk (Old Church), the oldest building in town and literally outstanding for its tower, known as Leaning John, which slants 6 feet off center. Nearby s tands Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), with its own 350-foot tower offering breathtaking vistas after 356 vertiginous steps. In the former, a plain slab marks Johannes Vermeer's unknown resting place in the church crypts while within the latter, an intricately carved marble mausoleum by prominent architect Henrick de Keyser memorializes William the Silent, founder of the Dutch republic. The Stadhius Delft (town hall) is a dazzling display of Dutch Renaissance architecture, completed in 1620 by de Keyser, a commanding presence with impressive spires and intricate details sculpted into its distinctive facade.

Every Thursday, a bustling market unfurls across the square, with 150 stalls hawking local dairy, fish, produce, snacks like stroopwafels filled with warm syrup, and a cornucopia of items from clothes to electronics to cycling equipment (of course!). These outdoor markets are where Rick Steves suggests you can find "the best souvenirs from local entrepreneurs and craftspeople." 

Markt is ringed with bars and eateries, but nosh up at local favorites minutes away for more authentic treats, like the beloved wood-set Café de Oude Jan for Dutch beer, the signature Dutch apple pie at Kobus Kuch, and Stads-Koffyhuis for little poffertjes pancakes, right on the oldest canal street in Delft. This area also buzzes with cozy stores and unique retailers for specialty shopping.

Delft is 'mini-Amsterdam' without crowds

A 20-minute canalside amble from Markt brings you to Royal Delft, the most iconic Delft Blue brand and also the last remaining factory from its 1600s heyday. The museum showcases rare artifacts such as King William III's 200-year-old royal collection and limited editions dreamed up by modern artists. Tour the workshop and see up close the time-consuming, exacting process of handcrafting each Delftware, from preparing raw materials and casting to not just one, but two, firing stages. There are painting workshops if you're inspired to create your own memento. 

Fans of "Girl With A Pearl Earring" must visit the Vermeer Centrum for the most comprehensive encounter with the Dutch master's life stories, techniques, repertoire, and influence on Delft. Purchase the €3 ($3.50) Vermeer Cubes walk guide here for a delightful way to wander about historic Delft, following the trail of his life's important sites and moments. Take it to Kolk to behold the View of Delft from the same perspective as its painter did on a morning in early September 1659. Several elements have changed, but not the medieval canal streaming eternally toward the twin Renaissance church towers tipping the sky.

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