Norway's Once-Abandoned Fishing Village Has Become A Refuge For Creatives Under The Northern Lights

Norway is often referred to as one of the world's happiest countries, and it's generally easy to see why: From lounging on stunning beaches under the midnight sun in the Arctic wilderness to visiting this jewel-like fjord with renowned views called the "Grand Canyon of Norway," there are multitudes of gorgeous sights to see and adventures to pursue in this Nordic wonderland. But the tiny, formerly abandoned fishing village of Nyksund in the far-north Vesterålen archipelago is an unlikely one. Against all odds, this small hamlet has been reborn as a refuge for artists and, by extension, a tourist destination for creative types.

In the early 1900s, Nyksund was a thriving fishing village, with a core of permanent residents plus an influx of several hundred more in the winter. But as larger fishing vessels became de rigueur, Nyksund's harbour was too narrow, and the town's inhabitants eventually all relocated. By 1975, nobody was left. But in recent decades, the tiny town has gained a second life, and today this delightful artsy enclave under the glow of the northern lights is well worth the trek north to visit.

The village's renaissance started with a social project in the 1980s in which struggling youth from Berlin came to stay in Nyksund and began repairing old buildings that had fallen into disrepair. Since then, the rejuvenation has continued. Now, the town boasts galleries, cafés and restaurants, a recording studio, a co-working space, and more.

Book lovers will enjoy spending time at Delpen Bokcafe. With an emphasis on Northern Norwegian literature (and Norwegian literature more broadly), this local gem still has plenty to enjoy even if you don't speak the language: It's a combination bookshop, café, and antique shop. Or, after a day spent wandering art galleries, grab a drink and listen to some excellent live music at Arthur-Brygge, a beloved pub and music venue in town. And enjoy a hearty meal, replete with freshly-caught local fish, at a local restaurant. In winter, cozy Holmvik Brygge (which also has a guesthouse you can stay in) is the perfect spot to warm up by the fire over a hearty meal. In summertime, head to Nyksund Ekspedisjonen, where you can tuck into a tasty dinner alfresco under the evening sun.

Beyond enjoying dinner in the sunshine, a summer visit is ideal in other ways too: Some establishments are only open in the warmer months, so definitely do your research to see what's on offer when you visit. And in August, the village comes alive for the Nyksund Festivals, including a music festival, an art festival, and a children's festival. But winter travelers also have lots to look forward to. Like at this remote ecolodge in the Canadian wilderness, a trip to Norway's far north wouldn't be complete without a valiant effort to see the northern lights, and winter is the optimal time for viewing. In fact, on clear-skied winter nights, Nyksund's inhabitants have elected to turn off the streetlights in order to allow for better viewing. Plus, in the off-season, you'll have this quiet slice of peaceful paradise all to yourself.

To get to Nyksund, it's a one-hour drive from Sortland. The closest air hub is the Harstad/Narvik Airport in Evenes, which is about a three-hour drive from Nyksund, passing through Sortland. While tourists can't drive into the village itself, there's a car park just outside Nyksund, so you can stash your vehicle and stroll into town from there. You can also take a bus from Sortland. Just be sure to plan ahead to ensure correct timings.