An Iconic Cafe And Lava Fields Meet Neon Nostalgia In California's Surreal Stretch Of Route 66 Desert

Otherworldly — that's one way to describe the Mojave Desert and its barren beauty. This unforgiving region is partly located in California and is on the iconic Route 66. There's not much here but the open road and traces of a lively past. A quintessential example of this is Amboy, situated on a stretch of Route 66 referred to as the National Trails Highway. Dating back to the 1800s, this destination in San Bernardino County is dreamlike and surreal. This ambiance can be credited to the area's two peculiar attractions: Roy's Motel & Cafe, with its glistening neon sign, and nearby Amboy Crater, a lava field that's become a popular hiking spot.

Amboy — about 3 hours from Los Angeles and Las Vegas – began declining in the 1970s and is now largely abandoned. Nevertheless, it's one of the most underrated stops on Route 66. Put simply, adventure awaits here. Start your visit by exploring Amboy Crater. Now extinct, the volcano's past eruptions are responsible for its rugged scenery. Per AllTrails, the hike from the trailhead to the top of the crater is about 4 miles round-trip. 

"Best in the morning or afternoon, a time with good shadows to really make the view pop," states one review. "Easy trail but rocky, so wear boots rather than shoes if trying to protect ankles and knees. No water, so bring all you need." Note that toilets are available on-site. Once you're done, swing by Roy's, established in 1938. You won't find an eatery or lodging here anymore, but there is a gas station where you can fuel up and purchase refreshments. Despite changing times and challenges, Amboy and Roy's Motel & Cafe have persevered.

While in Amboy, take a moment to appreciate the Googie architecture of Roy's. This bold retro design style is synonymous with Southern California and emerged in the 1940s. The fad died out a few decades later, and few Googie structures remain. Indeed, Amboy and Roy's Motel & Cafe could have disappeared off the map as a result of the decline of Route 66 if not for Albert Okura's intervention in 2005. That year, the entrepreneur  — known as the founder of the Juan Pollo fast food chain in Southern California — purchased Amboy, including Roy's, for $425,000.

Speaking to the Los Angeles Times in 2007, Okura explained, "I believe in destiny, and I believe my destiny involves that town." He added, "It's hard to explain. How many people can say they own a whole town?" Okura went on to revitalize Amboy as well as Roy's Motel & Cafe. He restored the site's gas station and, notably, repaired the 1950s-era sign in 2019 after years of the beloved neon icon being inoperable. 

Tourists from far and wide come to Amboy and Roy's, where they're met with nostalgia. A reviewer on Google wrote, "This is the best, authentic, slice of Route 66 Americana I have experienced in ages!" Not to mention that the gift shop sells plenty of quirky vintage-style souvenirs. Sadly, Okura died in early 2023. However, Amboy is now owned by his son, Kyle Okura, who is committed to restoring Roy's former glory. This means eventually having a working eatery and providing lodging at the motel's six cottages. In other words, Roy's Motel & Cafe will undoubtedly be captivating and welcoming visitors for years to come.

Whether you're traveling to or from Las Vegas or are traversing Route 66, why not make a detour to Amboy? Grab a snack, stretch your legs, and take as many photos as your heart desires of Roy's Motel & Cafe, open daily. Additionally, there's a memorial honoring Albert Okura across the road. Aside from this, there's little else in town (although you might want to take a peek at the defunct school located feet away from Roy's). If you've been on the road for hours and are looking for somewhere to stay and have a meal, consider driving to nearby Barstow, a Route 66 pitstop town with hidden gems all around. However, you can also camp in an RV or a tent at Roy's. 

Interested? Reservations can be made on Hipcamp, and yes, this campsite is pet-friendly. "Such an iconic place to stay!! It's really beautiful to see the sign and architecture at sunset/sunrise! We felt very safe and all the staff were super friendly and very welcoming," reads a review on the platform. Before you set off, make sure to check Roy's Motel & Cafe's Instagram for any updates regarding events or closures; the landmark is known to host car shows and other festivities.

For those who are planning to hike Amboy Crater, avoid doing so in the summer. The Mojave Desert's extreme temperatures could prove deadly. For cooler temperatures, tackle this trail in the winter or spring. Bring sun protection, as there is no shade on the trail. If you're up for another unusual destination, Lake Dolores Waterpark, a surreal abandoned California desert attraction, is a little over an hour away from Amboy.