Lake Trasimeno's Largest Island Is An Overlooked Italian Paradise Full Of Olive Groves And Quiet Charm

There are more than 1,500 lakes in Italy. Some are world-renowned, such as Lago di Garda — the largest in the country — and Lago di Como, famous for its shoreline dotted with picturesque villages like Bellagio, widely considered one of the most romantic places in Italy. But many, like Lake Trasimeno, are lesser-known. Located in the central region of Umbria, it was formed by tectonic activity more than 300,000 years ago. The lake covers 49 square miles and is remarkably shallow: The lake's depth is no more than 20 feet at any point. It's also home to a trio of islands.  

Of the three, Isola Maggiore is the only inhabited island on the lake. The smallest, Isola Minore, is privately owned. And the third and largest island, Isola Polvese, is a nature reserve with hiking trails, olive groves, a medieval fortress, and a garden displaying a wide range of aquatic plants. According to travelers, it's one of the most beautiful under-the-radar Italian islands — and it's easily accessible by ferry from the lake's shore, making it a perfect day trip for those in search of peace, quiet, and beautiful landscapes. 

One of the island's key attractions is Castillo Isola Polvese, a medieval fortress that dates back to the 15th century. Travelers can visit the castle complex, which includes the adjacent Church of San Giuiliano, for free. In summer months, on Sundays, and on some public holidays, guided tours are available at the top of the hour (around $4 per person). You're unlikely to encounter more than a handful of other visitors: Umbria truly is an ideal place to experience the vibes of Tuscany without crowds.

Another essential stop is the nearby Porcinai pool and garden. The name is a reference to Pietro Porcinai, a legendary Italian landscape architect commissioned by Count Giannino Citterio — the owner of the island in the mid-20th century — to redesign the grounds of his holiday home in 1959. The result, a lush garden with aquatic plants including water lilies and lotus, is featured on the same guided tour as the fortress and church. Afterwards, stroll through the island's oak forest and olive groves, or enjoy a picnic in the lakefront park on the north shore. 

In the evening, go for drinks or dinner at the relaxed Impact 0 Beach Bar or the elegant Bar L'Isola, part of the Isola Polvese Resort (rooms from $217 per night), one of the only lodgings on the island. Another place to stay overnight is the budget-friendly Trasimeno Nature House ($80 per night), featuring gorgeous sunset views over the lake. You could also consider basing yourself in a town on the lake's shore. Ferries come and go from Isola Polvese's harbor to San Feliciano (15-20 minutes), where a range of accommodations and dining venues await, including Albergo Ristorante da Settimio ($99 per night).

The closest travel hub is Perugia, an underrated medieval Italian city known for chocolate and art. It's 30 minutes by car from San Feliciano, or an hour using public transportation. From there, you're less than two hours by train from Florence and two to three hours by train or bus from Rome. Both cities have international airports.