Southern Italy's Stunning Cave Hotel Is A Hidden Gem With Romantic Dinners And A Relaxing Underground Spa

Within Italy's oldest city, Matera, an underrated ancient gem with a history that dates back more than 30,000 years, lies the Sassi di Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This 2,510-acre Paleolithic-era settlement consists of churches, shops, and over a thousand homes carved into the Murgia caves. Due to its status and natural beauty, Matera attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists annually, and numerous accommodations have sprung up as a result. One such place is the stunning Vetera Matera, an "albergo diffuso" (hotel with rooms scattered across various buildings) that opened on April 12, 2025. 

It's nestled in its namesake neighborhood, Rione Vetera, in the eastern part of this southern Italian city, and has also been built into the rock (or "sassi"). Vetera Matera is owned by hospitality brand Bellevue Group, which operates several luxury properties in Italy. It's the first five-star albergo diffuso under Relais & Châteaux, a non-profit association of 580 hotels and other businesses across 65 countries. The selection process for Relais & Châteaux members is rigorous, and they're required to meet certain criteria: They must showcase excellence in hospitality, demonstrate a commitment to protecting local culture and culinary traditions, and sign on to 12 UNESCO-approved sustainability actions.

Vetera Matera delivers on these criteria and then some: Guests receive exceptional service, and staff go above and beyond to provide curated experiences. The management team took great efforts to restore the original troglodyte abodes during an eight-year pre-opening process. The on-site restaurant, Artema, focuses on regional Basilicata specialties using seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients for its romantic dinners. And the underground spa, Elysium, features organic bath products in all of its relaxing treatments. These measures ensure that guests have a remarkable stay while this area's unique historic structures, cultural heritage, and local traditions are protected.

From morning until night, experience the intricate flavors of Southern Italy at Artema, Vetera Matera's swanky subterranean restaurant. The visionary behind Artema is Naples-born Chef Eduardo Estatico. He brings extensive culinary knowledge garnered from early childhood years spent in his grandmother's Neapolitan kitchen, and from many apprenticeships all over Italy and the U.S., to create an extraordinary gastronomic experience under ancient stones. Lucanian cooking traditions, the freshest ingredients from the Puglia and Basilicata regions, and a dash of the chef's creativity combine to produce innovative, modern dishes.

The exquisite lunch and dinner menus, which are seasonal, offer tasty tapas including whisky and soy-glazed smoked salmon and red shrimp with passion fruit. A recommended entrée is the tender, roasted Podolica beef fillet. And sweet treats, like the Matera-style tiramisu or the rum-soaked baba (a small Italian cake), are both excellent ways to end your night. Breakfast is served here, too — buffet-style, with some à la carte options — from 7:30 to 10:30 a.m., and is included. Savor the morning with a piping-hot coffee, cured meats, and local cheeses surrounded by these storied limestone walls. Make sure you try the Matera bread, a sourdough specialty for which the region is famous.

For inventive aperitifs and glorious views, head to Il Wine & Cocktail Bar, situated on a dreamy terrace elevated above the city. Enjoy a signature libation while you look out at the winding alleyways, meandering pedestrians, and picturesque medieval residences beyond. Here, you can also explore Basilicata's special terroir through the bar's regional wine list (or visit the cellar below for an even wider selection of bottles). Sunset is the ideal time to visit, when the earthen dwellings take on a surreal, otherworldly glow and the sky is painted in magical, vibrant hues.

Elysium, the hotel's subterranean spa carved right into the thousand-year-old sassi, is your go-to spot for self-care. This expansive wellness center contains three massage rooms, one for couples and another specifically for Zerobody, a special treatment that involves floating on a bed in a warm-water bath while following a guided meditation. Here, you'll also find rain showers infused with scented essential oils, a hammam steam bath, a changing room, indoor and outdoor lounging areas with comfy daybeds, and a Finnish-style sauna. Two particularly special features are the calidarium, a hot tub with soothing hydro-massage jets, and the frigidarium, a cold plunge pool that is certain to awaken your senses.

The spa offers a range of standard and signature treatments for wellness and beauty, including facials, body rituals, and more. The all-encompassing and memorable Vetera Ritual is blissful from head to toe. From the scalp massage all the way down to the foot bath, this is a rejuvenating, full-body experience. You can also opt for the Thai Herbal Massage, where your practitioner incorporates natural herbs and plants into the revitalizing treatment. Alternatively, the more intense Sports Massage is perfect for recovery, if you're planning any physical activity during your stay. Afterwards, head to the outdoor relaxation area for spectacular views, fresh air, and warm sunshine.

While you likely want to spend most of your time venturing out into the city and exploring the sassi, Elysium is the ideal place to unwind after a day of wandering. The spa is open from 10:00 a.m. until 8 p.m., and reservations are recommended. Treatments start at $82 for a 30-minute localized massage and go up from there. Check Elysium's website for special promotions, including a couples' spa package.

The hotel offers 23 spacious rooms and eight suites, each one unique and built into the tuff stone. They've been designed to complement the natural cave setting, with soft earthy tones, terracotta flooring, stone-tiled bathrooms, elegant art, and the original pockmarking still intact in the walls. There are two room categories to choose from. The multi-level, 1,044-square-foot Hypogeal suites are expansive underground dwellings with high vaulted ceilings, separate sleeping and lounge areas, a private hot tub, and a daybed. Meanwhile, the Noble suites are above-ground, airy spaces that come with terraces and large windows overlooking Matera. After exploring, come back to your peaceful retreat in the rocks, complete with breathtaking vistas of this historic city. The nightly rate starts at $344, at the time of this writing.

If you're already in Europe, you can reach Matera by train from various regional hubs. The nearest train station is Matera Centrale, just a 15-minute walk from the hotel. If you're flying in, the closest airport is in Bari, a little port city in the Puglia region famous for homemade pasta. At the time of writing, there is only one direct flight to Bari International Airport-Karol Wojtyla (BRI) from the U.S. — it flies seasonally, once per week, from New York's JFK airport. However, there are plenty of one-stop flights available from several American cities. The airport is about an hour northeast of Vetera Matera, which can arrange a shuttle service for an additional fee. You can also rent a car or find a taxi upon arrival. When planning your visit, note that the best time for a vacation to Italy is in May, June, September, or October if you'd like to experience pleasant, comfortable weather and be sure that most businesses and attractions are open.