Greece's Most Relaxing Getaway Is A Tiny Pair Of Islands Where Having 'Nothing To Do' Is The Attraction
There are around 200 inhabited islands in Greece, but no two are alike. They range from the popular island of Santorini (where finding the best place to stay is essential) to the historic, beach-covered paradise of Kythera, home to an ancient castle. Further from the mainland of Greece is the Dodecanese archipelago — you might know of its largest island, Rhodes, as the former site of the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Two tiny but fascinating islands in the archipelago, Arki and Marathi, offer some of the most serene experiences you can get in the Mediterranean (without being completely isolated).
Arki (sometimes spelled Arkoi) is the bigger of the two islands, at around 3 square miles, with only one village and around 40 to 50 residents. It's possible to rent a room overnight here and dine at local tavernas, but most of the island's appeal lies in its calm, pristine beaches. Marathi (or Marathos) is even smaller, less than half a square mile, and only has a handful of people that live there, but it's the perfect spot to hike and swim in solitude. The islands are small enough to explore in a day or two, but you might find that spending a few days there with no agenda is a pleasant contrast to the crowds and sightseeing of more popular Greek islands.
Fresh fish and winding paths on Arki
A ferry can take you to Arki's port starting from either Patmos or Lipsi islands. From Patmos, it's a 20- to 40-minute ferry ride, and from Lipsi, it's an hour long on average. On the island, there's just one way to get around: on foot. Around the harbor, a cluster of white-washed houses, tavernas, and fishing boats greet you — this is pretty much the extent of Arki's village. Taverna Nikolas has the most reviews of the dining options here, with 4.7 stars on TripAdvisor. The taverns serve mostly fresh seafood along with traditional Greek dishes.
If you follow the main road to the southern end of the island, you'll reach Tiganakia, a lovely beach with coves and views of the islets scattered across the crystalline water. The rocky outcrops that encircle the beach block strong winds and create a scenic, sheltered spot. On the way, you'll also pass a more secluded restaurant, Taverna Apolafsi, with stellar views of the seaside. North of the port, you'll find the weathered remains of an Italian observatory and also the island's old hilltop church, the Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa. As you wander the island, keep your eyes peeled for ancient ruins peeking out unexpectedly from the landscape.
Peaceful houses and seaside rest on Marathi
You can take a small boat from the Arki port to Marathi. The island is small enough that you could easily walk across the entirety of its rocky terrain in under an hour. Despite only having a few residents living on the island, you'll notice a few buildings around where the boats dock. These are guesthouses and a tavern run by the local families. One is the Marathi Island Resort, which has been headed by the Aimilianos family since 1978. The resort consists of private rooms, as well as three white houses with breezy blue accents and each with views across the sea. The Pantelis Marathi Restaurant, also run by the family, takes reservations online and has seating by the beach to enjoy decadent seafood dishes.
You won't find much to see on the island, but it's worth wandering around to get views of goats grazing along the hills with the glistening ocean in the background. There's a little white church with a blue dome, the church of Agios Nikolaos, connected by a path from the main beach. Around the church are some ruins from previous settlements. Otherwise, your time on the island will unfold slowly, with sun-drenched afternoons by the shore, a good book in your lap, and fresh mezzes within reach. If you're doing some island hopping, read up on the best Greek islands to visit in the summer to plan your next stop after Marathi.