A Secret Stretch Of California Coast Is A Hidden Haven Full Of Secluded Beaches And Trendy Eateries
California's Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) — also known simply as Highway 1 — is lined with famous attractions from Hearst Castle and the Monterey Aquarium to the breathtaking landscapes of Big Sur. In between are lesser-known destinations, some of which are just as spectacular. Take Davenport, an old whaling village in Santa Cruz County. With a total area of less than three square miles and a population of just 537, it's a small place by most measures. But with its striking coastal scenery and lively food scene, Davenport has plenty to offer visitors.
One of Davenport's key landmarks is Shark Fin Rock, about a mile south of downtown. The massive rock formation, named for its shark fin shape, is partly visible from a distance as you approach. The surrounding area is called Shark Fin Cove (it also goes by Shark Tooth Beach), and it's accessible via an unmarked parking lot off Highway 1. The parking area opens onto a short, steep hiking trail that leads down to the sandy beach. On the southeast end of the beach, there's a centuries-old sea cave in the beach cliffs. Depending on the tide, you can step right into it and look back for a jaw-dropping view of Shark Fin Rock framed by arching rock walls.
Looking for more off-the-beaten-path gems in the region? Side-trip to the 'Garlic Capital Of The World' for bold bites, golden hills, and small-town California charm.
A historic roadhouse and a berry farm
Davenport may be tiny, but the locals eat well. The family-owned Davenport Roadhouse Restaurant & Inn is located on Highway 1, just across the street from the sea on the site where the town's general store was once located. In addition to a menu of California-style comfort food and a full bar, the Roadhouse hosts a rotating calendar of live music acts. You can even stay at the inn above the restaurant. The inn's nine simple but cozy rooms (from $175 per night) open onto a wooden wraparound deck with rocking chairs to make the most of the ocean views.
Stop for breakfast at nearby Whale City Bakery before heading up the coast (a 3-minute drive, a 10-minute bike ride, or a 40-minute walk) to Swanton Berry Farm, the first unionized organic farm in the country. The farm stand is open daily from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., and it's a wonderful spot to buy freshly picked strawberries, gourmet jams, and homemade baked goods like marionberry pie and blackberry truffle. You can also pick your own berries (priced by weight) every day from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
If you love Davenport's gastronomic scene, you won't want to miss a visit to this under-the-radar getaway on California's coast with beautiful beaches and renowned foodie gems.
Plan a trip to Davenport
Downtown Davenport is a 15- to 20-minute drive from Santa Cruz. Local buses make the same journey (25 minutes). From Santa Cruz, the closest major airport is San Jose Mineta International Airport, about a 45-minute drive or roughly two hours if you take a combination of local buses.
You won't need a car to explore the village itself, though you'll probably want some kind of transportation (car, bicycle, or ride-share service) to arrive at the trailhead to Shark Fin Cove, since it's a short distance outside of town. There aren't any bike rental options in Davenport, but you could rent one from the many outfitters in Santa Cruz. The same is true of lodgings: the only rooms for rent in the village are at the Davenport Roadhouse Restaurant & Inn, but you'll find many more in nearby Santa Cruz.
Travelers continuing north might consider a stop in the 'Salad Bowl Of The World,' a walkable California city sandwiched between Monterey and Santa Cruz.