This Basque Surf Town Has One Of The Best Beaches In Spain, A Charming Old Town, And Hidden Dining Gems
Nestled between Zumaia and Getaria, a fishing village with world-class dining, Zarautz is a small surf town on Spain's Basque coast. A stop on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, Zarautz is popular for its long stretch of sandy beach, gentle surfing waves, and a wide range of unique dining experiences. From casual pintxo bars, to beachside restaurants, to cider houses and elevated dining, it's a foodie's dream escape on the coast.
Just 30 minutes away from the nearest airport in Spain's culinary capital, San Sebastian, Zarautz is a quintessential Basque town, tucked between the sea and the mountains. The beach in Zarautz is a big draw and has even been called one of the best beaches in Spain by Travel + Leisure. It takes about 30 minutes to walk the entire length of the beach, and you'll see everything from a forested coastline to a vibrant boardwalk to a wild beach with dunes where the river meets the sea.
With eight surf schools offering a range of services, there are plenty of options for wannabe and novice surfers to catch waves. Some popular schools for beginners include Pukas, North Shore Zarautz, and Good People Surf. Part surf hostel, part surf school, and part café, Zarautz Surf House is a popular one-stop shop for visitors looking to go all-in on a surfing weekend. Pro surfer Aritz Aranburu's surf school, Shelter Surf, offers surf lessons for beginners, but it's also the place for surfers to refine their technique and do some intensive training. If you want to check the waves before making any decisions, check the live webcam on the Essus Surf website.
Explore Zarautz's old town
Every Basque town has a historical old town in its center, and Zarautz is no different. Typically pedestrian only, barring the early morning delivery trucks, the old town is chock full of pintxo bars and plazas. Pintxos are small bites displayed on the bar, usually served over a piece of bread. There are many variations, and you can also order pintxos from the menu in addition to what you see on the bar.
Basque culture is all about gathering, whether it's eating and drinking or congregating for a festival. The proximity of pintxo bars makes it easy to hop from spot to spot, spreading the love. In general, you can't go wrong, especially given that this Spanish region is a paradise for food and wine. Around the corner from the handball courts, Napar Berri has a nice patio with outdoor seating. In Musika Plaza, Otamendi has an outdoor terrace (pictured above) that is great for people watching. If you're there on a weekend, there's a good chance you'll encounter some kind of dancing, singing, or festival of sorts. Order a txakoli, a slightly fizzy local white wine, and try regional specialties like txistorra (sausage), tortilla de patata (a potato omelette), or croquetas (deliciously fried balls of ham or fish in a creamy bechamel).
At Merkatua, the covered market in Zarautz, you can find fresh produce, fish, meat, cheese, flowers, and coffee. The modern market, located in a building that dates back to 1903, is open every day except Sunday. For additional shopping, you can find clean, organic cosmetics at Harea Organic; consciously produced clothing and products with a nod to local Basque culture at Colors of Basque Country; clothes, shoes, and sunglasses at skate shop 310; and books at Garoa, a lovely little bookstore that has been around for over 50 years.
Dining beyond the pintxo bars
Ask any local where to eat in Zarautz and you'll be spoiled for choice. Karlos Arguiñano, a renowned chef, has one of the most well-known restaurants in town. Named after him, but run by his sons, Karlos Arguiñano Hotel and Restaurant is located in a villa on the beach. The youngest son in the family, Joseba, is the pastry chef whose shop JA is a regular stop for locals. Try the milhojas de nata, layers of crunchy, caramelized puff pastry filled with Chantilly cream and topped with fruit.
Another excellent but lesser-known option is Kirkilla (pictured above). Here, you can enjoy what feels like a Michelin-starred meal at a fraction of the price. The extremely reasonable lunch menu, which includes three courses and wine, is just under $30. On the opposite end of the beach, Ur Bare is a chic hotel that is home to Aiten Etxe, a modern spot for either lunch or dinner. Alternatively, you can also lounge on the hotel's terrace, enjoy the ocean view, and have some snacks from the terrace Bar Tarín.
Since 1902, Otzarreta has been serving memorable meals in either their wood-beamed dining room or candlelit garden. If you're in the mood for something more casual and rustic, drive 10 minutes inland to Izeta Sagardotegia, a cider house. A typical Basque experience, you'll sit at a communal table and dine on a traditional set menu featuring fish and meat, and serve yourself cider from the chilled barrel rooms.