Crete's Long-Lost Hippie Town Has Sea Caves, Sunset Tavernas, And Ancient Ruins On The Libyan Sea

Greece's largest island has more hidden secrets than you can shake a local dakos salad at — but don't do that; they're too tasty. There's a dreamy pink-and-turquoise lagoon on the rugged Gramvousa Peninsula up in the far northwest. There are gushing waterfalls and cave pools to swim through in the Kourtaliotiko Gorge further inland. And then there's Matala: a place of free-love vibes, sea-splashed beaches, and caves that ooze history in Crete.

If you're keen to leave behind the big resort towns that cluster around the island's north coast, find your way through the mountains to this salt-washed town on the Libyan Sea. It won't take long — you're looking at just over an hour's drive from Heraklion, the biggest city on the island that's also home to one of the largest airports in Crete. Coming in from Chania, in the west, the drive takes closer to two and a half hours.

From the moment you arrive, it's all about cranking up the R&R, embracing the hippie feels, and enjoying the balmy temperatures offered by southern Crete. This is a place where ramshackle cafes perch above azure waters; bazaars and boutique shops tout tie-dye trousers and antique books; and tavernas serve up Greek smorgasbords to a backdrop of blazing sunsets. Oh, and there's history to punctuate all that in the form of Roman burial sites and the ruins of grand Minoan palaces nearby.

If you're looking to let your hair down and follow in the footsteps of Bob Dylan, Janis Joplin, and others, then Matala is the place to go. Throughout the '60s and '70s, the town was a stomping ground for some of the most totemic songwriters of the age. They settled in a series of old burial chambers turned caves that were carved out of the cliffside on the north side of the main beach during the Roman era.

Perhaps the most famous former resident of all is Joni Mitchell, who is said to have written portions of her song "Carey" about a love affair she had in Matala during her stay in 1970. It depicts the rough and ready living conditions, talks of the warm African air currents that come across the Libyan Sea into town, and expresses a longing for a return to the comforts of home.

Fast forward to today and the caves where the hippies once lived are now a protected archaeological site. You can walk around them, but channeling your inner Summer of Love by sleeping inside is strictly prohibited. Not all is lost, though. Matala still oozes counterculture. Just take the Matala Beach Festival in July, which brings a hubbub of artists to stages set up on the sands, and sees the town's alleys transformed into a show of vibrant street art.

Crete isn't hailed as a quintessential Greek getaway of sun, food, and beach for nothing. The whole island is renowned for its gorgeous sand stretches and rugged snorkeling coves, and the southern region around Matala is a doozy. Even the town beach in Matala is something special. Measuring 984 feet from end to end, it's a mix of sand and stone that's tailor-made for chilling. As one past visitor put it on TripAdvisor: "Beyond beautiful. The beach. The caves. Everything was spectacular. The sunbeds are reasonably priced. The vibe is definitely hippie."

It's also not your only option, however. A popular hiking path will whisk you over the rock-ribbed headlands to the south, out to where the appropriately named Red Beach strings under rust-colored cliffs. Be warned: It has the distinction of being the only place in the land of feta and Zorba dances to be named among the finest nudist beaches on the globe. Clothing there is very much optional.

When you're ready for a break from sunning yourself and swimming in bath-warm waters, be sure to head inland just a touch to see the incredible site of ancient Phaistos. Second only to the iconic Knossos in terms of size, it was once a hub of the Minoan civilization. It's a chance to wander the remains of a 4,000-year-old palace and theater complex, enjoying sweeping views of the southern Cretan coast and mountains as you go.