California's Least Populated County Has Hot Springs, Rugged Western Charm, And More Campgrounds Than Towns

Nestled up against the border of Nevada, Alpine County is California's least populous county, with only around 1,200 people calling it home. The county's seat, Markleeville, has a population of about 150, and overall, the county consists of far more campgrounds than civilization. Travelers looking for adventure will certainly find plenty to do, from cross-country skiing to dips in local hot springs and intrepid hikes, but those seeking hot food and small-town charm will also certainly find that — if you know where to look. Ultimately, Alpine County is the perfect destination for travelers looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure through some authentic American wilderness.

Originally inhabited by the Washoe People, a Native American tribe, Alpine County was first explored by colonists drawn by the allure of silver in the mid-1800s, and by around 1864, the area's population had soared to 11,000. Most settlers ended up finding more gold and silver in nearby towns, though, turning the area they had developed into a ghost town. However, in 1861, Jacob Markley established the town of Markleeville as a toll station for travelers passing through, and though a dispute with an investment partner led to his death in 1863, Markleeville soon became the seat of Alpine County. The town experienced a minor economic revival thanks to the construction of several ski resorts in the 1960s, and today, it remains a jumping-off point for those looking to ski, explore the wild peaks and charming towns hidden in the Sierra Nevadas, or simply see a very different side of the Golden State.

Alpine County contains a few dozen campgrounds and thousands of acres of wilderness, and nature is what truly defines this wild Western gem. But visitors — especially those tired from hiking or skiing through the Sierra Nevadas — might find themselves particularly drawn to Alpine County's hot springs, which can be accessed at Grover Hot Springs State Park. Located 4 miles west of Markleeville at nearly 6,000 feet above sea level, the park's campground and hot springs are usually open year-round, though visitors must reserve their spots at the pools in advance. The park is also just a 45-minute drive from the southern end of Lake Tahoe.

Here, visitors can soak in the park's two steamy, mineral-rich pools, which are said to have many health benefits, while drinking in views of nearby mountain ranges and forests. It's possible to visit any time of year, though Alpine County grows freezing in the winter, leading to many blocked roads, while in summer, temperatures can rise to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This state park is just one of many campgrounds and scenic natural locales in Alpine County, and another nearby option is the slightly less developed Silver Creek Campground. Visitors can also camp anywhere on public lands across the county, though usually not for more than two weeks at a time.

If you're looking for civilization while visiting Alpine County, a trip to the town of Markleeville might be in order. While the town all but shuts down in the winter due to the freezing weather, in summer, it's a hotspot for travelers and RV dwellers. Its largest event is the annual Death Ride, a bike trip that takes brave riders on a 103-mile trek that soars 14,000 vertical feet. The town also contains the Markleeville General Store and a library, and dining options include the Stonefly Restaurant, which puts an Italian twist on Nevada cuisine and boasts a 4.6-star rating on Google, and the Cutthroat Tavern, which was founded in 1862 and claims to be Alpine County's oldest drinking establishment. Travelers can also rest their heads at Markleeville's rustic Creekside Lodge, which has a 4.8 rating on Google, and, of course, camping is also a popular choice. 

Markleeville is about an hour's drive from the Reno-Tahoe International Airport, and it's also possible to visit Markleeville or some of its surrounding forests on a day trip from or road trip around Lake Tahoe, though be sure to check the weather first. If you're looking for a hair salon, a bank, or other typical town facilities, you likely won't find it in Markleeville.

Interestingly, though, Alpine County was almost the home of a utopian gay community in the 1970s, though the effort failed. The county was also damaged by the 2021 Tamarack Fire, and though many areas were closed as a result, recovery efforts continue to rejuvenate the area's majestic forests and unique establishments.