The World's Most Crowded Island Is A Densely Populated Destination With Bizarre Secrets

Africa is dotted with idyllic islands: You'll find one of the world's best-ranked beaches in the Seychelles and uncrowded tropical perfection in the Zanzibar archipelago. Migingo Island, however, could not be farther from a dreamy island paradise. You'll find no butler service here — or even hotels — as every inch of this tiny island has been claimed by its inhabitants living in close quarters, sheltered by corrugated metal shacks. Barely half the size of a soccer field, Migingo Island covers about half an acre, yet around 500 people live there. This intense population density has earned it the nickname "the world's most crowded island."

Migingo Island is not a tourist destination, and it is difficult to reach. It lies in Lake Victoria, Africa's largest lake and the world's second-largest freshwater lake, in water claimed by both Kenya and Uganda. The most practical route starts in Nairobi, since the island is closer to the Kenyan shore (once on the lake, it's roughly two hours by boat versus six from Uganda). Travel can go overland for eight hours from Nairobi to Muhuru Bay, then take a two-hour speedboat ride to Usingo, from which Migingo Island is visible.

Another travel challenge comes from the fact that the island is contested territory between Kenya and Uganda. Visitors may need to register with local authorities before departure, check in with marine police on arrival, explain the reason for their visit and possibly pay unofficial fees.

Because of Africa's long history, it's surprising that Migingo Island only emerged in the 1990s. Before then, it was submerged beneath Lake Victoria. As waters receded, the rocky outcrop surfaced, and in 1991, two Kenyan fishermen claimed it as their base, although Uganda claims its residents were the first to inhabit the island. Over time, more fishermen arrived, mostly from Kenya, with some also coming from Uganda and Tanzania. 

The reason the island is so crowded — and why there has been a longstanding territorial dispute — is that the waters around Migingo Island are rich with Nile perch, a species that was introduced to Lake Victoria in the 1950s. The trade in this valuable fish transformed a barren rock into a boomtown. Highly prized, the fish can fetch up to $300 for just two pounds of premium fillets. Living on the island allows fishermen to avoid long commutes, spend less on fuel, and gain better access to buyers. More than a hundred boats dock at Migingo every morning, handing over their cargo to be weighed, sold, and shipped. The island functions essentially as a giant fishing base.

Another unusual aspect of Migingo is the presence of pirates. Not the swashbuckling Jack Sparrow kind, but the kind who raid boats for fish, engines, and cash. With Nile perch being such a lucrative and abundant product, not only honest fishermen but also opportunistic thieves — and unscrupulous security personnel — are lured to the island to claim a share of the profits.

So tiny you can walk around it in under 10 minutes, Migingo Island is a jumble of corrugated tin shacks clinging to a rock. It's a miniature city with a maze of narrow alleys, barely wide enough for two people to pass. Rocky and with no vegetation, every inch of this cramped grid is covered by housing or business. It's home to the fishermen and some businesses that have developed to serve them: Restaurants, bars, a pharmacy, brothels, a beauty salon, and even an open-air casino. At night, after a long day on the lake, Migingo comes alive with chatter, music, and drink. It is a lively, if precarious, community forged by necessity.

Kenyans make up around 80% of the population, Ugandans about 20%, and almost everyone is connected to the fishing trade in some way. Migingo's economic success is overshadowed by overfishing, invasive species, and pollution that threaten Lake Victoria's ecosystem. Waste disposal on the island is virtually nonexistent, with trash and sewage often dumped into the lake. Overcrowded, unsanitary conditions also pose health risks. 

The "world's most crowded island" reflects the lure and underbelly of big profits, the fragility of natural resources, the tensions of borders, and the adaptability of people who make their lives in the harshest conditions. Perhaps if you do venture to this inhospitable island, it may be worth balancing the experience by enjoying one of the best places in the world to see wildlife while enjoying posh amenities in Kenya.