The 'Venice Of Japan' Is An Affordable Seaside Village In Northern Kyoto Known For Fresh Food And Festivals

A Japan itinerary reads like a well-oiled playbook, with Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka as its star players. Yet Japan holds more than just the neon-lit skylines of Tokyo, the traditional temple complexes of Kyoto, or the foodie favorite "Japan's Kitchen," Osaka. Some of Japan's most affordable and gorgeous destinations sit quietly in the shadows of these popular cities, just like the small fishing village of Ine. Located in the northern Kyoto Prefecture, backed by mountains and facing the sea, Ine remains tethered to its centuries-old fishing roots, dating back to the time when its shores were vital to trade between Kyoto and China. 

The humble village owes much of its charm to a signature architectural feature: the funaya. Funayas — which translates to boat houses — first appeared during Japan's Edo period, and were built to keep the then-wood and hemp boats out of the water to prevent them from rotting and damage from seawater. Fishermen would haul the boats onto a platform hovering slightly over the water and sometimes use the upper level as a living space. 

Though fishing is still the main source of livelihood in this quaint village, most of the funayas have evolved, albeit slowly, to the times. With the advent of larger, heavier boats crafted from more resistant materials, few funayas still house the occasional fishing boat; most of the above-water levels are used as storage or utility spaces. Others have also been converted into spots to have a coffee, take in a meal, or spend a night while staring out at the glinting bay waters. About 230 of these charming funayas are lined shoulder-to-shoulder for some 3 miles of waterfront, earning Ine its fitting nickname, "Venice of Japan."

Japan is brimming with unexpected places you can get affordable and exceptionally tasty meals, and seafood can't get any fresher than in Ine; morning catches are cleaned, plated, and ready to serve by midday. Different fish species are available year-round in Ine, which owes its seafood variety to a fortunate accident of geography — mountains flanking its northern, eastern, and western sides, and an island (Aoshima, or Ao Island) positioned at the lip of the inlet that breaks the force of currents and waves coming in from the sea.

Come the colder months, winter yellowtail (kanburi) is the dish to order: It is Ine's signature catch, and its fatty meat is at the heart of soul-warming hotpot dinners from November through February. In the spring, fishermen haul in the freshest rock oysters (iwagaki), known for their mild, milky flavor. It goes without saying that Japan's well-known culinary hits like sashimi or salt-grilled fish can be easily found in Ine's dining establishments. Funaya Kajiya comes highly recommended by customers (who can argue with the glowing 4.8 out of 5 stars it garnered on Google Reviews?) who praised the fresh seafood, beautiful food presentation, and fair, affordable prices for the quality.

Seafood aside, vegetables and rice are harvested further inland in the Tango Peninsula and sold at Ine's Tourist Information Center. Meanwhile, take a sip of history at the Mukai Sake Brewery, where sake has been made since 1754. Still, you can't say the brewery has been stuck in the past — in 1999, Kuniko Mukai took the reins of the establishment, one of the first female brewers of the time to do so.

Though the culture and seafood are more than enough to justify a trip to Ine, participating in any of Ine's annual festivals (matsuris) is a treat for the eyes and the senses. The Ennensai festival in March is marked by shrine prayers and dances for prosperity in life, business, and harvest. Summer brings a handful of festivals to Ine's shores, all centered on thanks and prayers for safety, a good harvest, and a good catch. Festivities start with the two-day Ine Festival in July, a flurry of boat parades, sword performances, and children's dances offered to the deity Gozu Tenno. August celebrations include the Honjo Festival's lantern and sword festivities, the rowing festival, Obessan, and a firework display. 

The nearest major airports to Ine are Osaka's Kansai Airport (KIX) and Itami Airport (ITM). The regional Tajima Airport (TJH), 1.5 hours away, only serves domestic Japan Airlines flights. The best way to get to Ine is by car: It's a 2.5-hour drive from Osaka and two hours from Kyoto and Kobe through expressways and a stretch of regional road. Public transportation is trickier, requiring a bullet train from Osaka or Kyoto and switching to the scenic Tango Railway to make the local bus to Ine — this will take about three to 3.5 hours one way, so plan to leave early in the morning to make good use of the day. 

Perhaps consider staying the night in one of the 20 or so funaya guesthouses, which gives you a full day to grab a free bicycle from the Tourist Information Center and explore the town. Since funayas are best viewed from the water, rent a sea taxi early the next morning, where local boatmen are happy to exchange a few words about their beloved town with travelers.