Vermont's Lovely Little Burlington Suburb Might Be The 'Most Interesting 1.5 Square Mile City On Earth'

The Winooski River — Vermont's third largest — has shaped much of the state, serving as the major waterway between Lake Champlain and the state's northern hinterland. It also flows through Montepelier, a vibrant East Coast city with food and landscapes that feel just like France. At times, the river trickles; at others, it gushes. In Winooski, it cascades into waterfalls, serving as the power source for the textile mills that were the economic backbone of the city for more than a century. The mills also drew immigrants, who helped define Winooski's individuality, so much so that the community broke from Colchester to become an independent city in 1922. The closure of the mills in the 1950s brought decades of hardship, but in the 2000s the city began a rebirth that earned it a new nickname: Burlington's Brooklyn.

The nickname reveals much about Winooski today — alluding to the cool factor injected by a crop of hipster haunts. Funky bars, laptop-friendly cafes, craft breweries, farm-to-table restaurants, and luxury apartments fill the downtown core on and around Main Street. It also points to the immigrant population that makes Winooski Vermont's most ethnically diverse city, a distinction in a state that is about 95% white, according to World Population Review. Geography plays into the reference, too, with Brooklyn across the East River from Manhattan, while Winooski lies across the Winooski River from Burlington, Vermont's largest city, offering an artsy, urban vacation surrounded by mountains. But perhaps what earns the nickname most is the tight community fabric that gives Winooski a distinct, borough-like identity.

Winooski, which describes itself as the "most interesting 1.5 square mile city on Earth," puts nearly all highlights within steps of each other — mostly around the few small blocks of downtown. Start at the riverbank, where the bridge crosses from Burlington. On either side are Winooski Falls, which grow in size and power with rain and snow, sometimes to devastating effect. Here, the Winooski River Walk extends west and east. To the west, the Champlain Mill Path jogs along the riverbank and the 1881 Woolen Mill. Heading east leads to the even larger Champlain Mill, built in 1912. Today, it houses the Heritage Winooski Mill Museum, which tells the story of the mill and its workers. Just beyond the mill and next to Waterworks restaurant is the best viewpoint of the falls. From there, the trail continues along the river to the Casavant Natural Area.

North and perpendicular of the Riverwalk is downtown Winooski. The west side of Main Street contains the usual cluster of small, 19th- and early 20th-century storefronts typical of New England towns, with the 1867 Winooski Blockat the head. Across the street stands the face of urban renewal, which tore down the old buildings in the 1970s and eventually created the large roundabout and the building complex beyond. Most of Winooski's hipster scene keeps to the historic side, where quirky bars and bites reside. Highlights include Mule Bar, Four Quarters Brewing, Misery Loves Company, and Onion City Chicken and Oyster. Those seeking the true old-school can look to Papa Frank's, serving Italian staples since 1984.

Because of Winooski's tiny size, there's little to see beyond the downtown area. In fact, walking five to 10 blocks in any direction takes you into Burlington or Colchester. In between are residential neighborhoods going about their day. The two steeples that stand above it all belong to the Saint Francis Xavier Church, built in 1870. From there, it's a five-minute walk to Tiny Thai, considered by many to be Vermont's best Thai restaurant. Winooski's oldest building, the Old Stone House from 1790, still sits on East Allen Street. Keep heading in that direction and take a few short turns to reach Gilbrook Nature Area, which covers 42 acres behind the St. Michael's College campus, and features a 1.3-mile trail.

From Gilbrook, it's easy to spot the main artery to Winooski, Interstate 89, which runs south along Lake Champlain from the Canadian border — passing through St. Albans, Vermont's underrated lakeside town with Victorian streets, craft brews, and cute shops — before crossing central Vermont and New Hampshire. Exit 15 deposits travelers on East Allen Street, which leads west into downtown. Otherwise, approach Winooski from Burlington by way of Riverside Drive or Colchester Avenue, or from Colchester along Route 2. 

Reaching Winooski by public transit means riding Green Mountain Transit's 9 bus from Burlington. Amtrak does not stop in Winooski, but stations are within a few miles, in Burlington and Essex Junction. The same goes for Burlington International Airport, about 3 miles away. The airport's proximity — along the presence of a Vermont National Guard base — keeps the Winooski sky alive with the sound and sight of commercial and military jets.