Pennsylvania's Enchanted Forest State Park Is A Canopy Of Magic With Mossy Trails And Kayaking Fun
You know that feeling when you walk into a cathedral and suddenly feel tiny? Cook Forest State Park in northwestern Pennsylvania does that to you, except instead of stone arches, you're surrounded by white pines and hemlocks that have been standing for over 400 years. These trees are so massive and old that locals call them "The Ancients" — a name that's honestly very fitting. You can't help but feel like you've stumbled into some forgotten corner of Middle-earth, with mossy trails underfoot and the Clarion River winding nearby, inviting visitors to step off the paths and onto the water in a kayak.
The whole place feels like someone took a fairy tale and made it real. There's literally an area called the Forest Cathedral that's designated as a National Natural Landmark, and trails with names like the Emerald Path, where moss creates this brilliant green carpet that looks almost too perfect to be natural. Walking through here, even the most practical person starts believing in magic a little bit. The trees are so tall they block out most of the sky, creating this hushed, almost sacred atmosphere that makes you automatically lower your voice.
But if you really want to see Cook Forest at its most enchanting, visit during firefly season in late June through July. Around 8 p.m., when dusk settles over the 8,500-acre park, thousands of fireflies start their nightly light show among the ancient trees. Cook Forest sits within Pennsylvania's 2-million-acre wilderness region called the Pennsylvania Wilds, which also includes incredible spots for stargazing under some of the darkest skies on the East Coast and wildlife viewing among the Northeast's largest elk herds. It's enough to make anyone believe in fairytales again.
Where to explore among the ancient giants in Cook Forest State Park
You could honestly spend weeks in Cook Forest and still discover new corners, with 47 miles of hiking trails. The Longfellow Trail is just one of the many, many highlights — taking you on a loop right through the Forest Cathedral, where you're completely surrounded by towering pines and hemlocks. This corner of Pennsylvania will make you remember why you fell in love with nature again — the canopy is so thick that even on bright sunny days, you feel like you're walking through a natural temple.
For the best views, head to Seneca Point Overlook and the nearby Cook Forest Fire Tower. The 87.5-foot tower was built in 1929 and gave firefighters a view of the surrounding wilderness. Now, it offers visitors a stunning perspective over the Clarion River Valley from 1,600 feet up. The short walk from the fire tower to Seneca Point is worth it for the views alone — you can see for miles across the valley below.
If you're up for something more challenging, the Deer Park Trail on the southern end of the park has an interesting claim to fame. In 1946, Cecil B. DeMille filmed parts of "Unconquered" starring Gary Cooper right there among these ancient trees. The trail runs just over a mile and connects PA Route 36 to the Seneca Trail, taking you through the filming locations where you can stand where Gary Cooper once stood. From here, trails start heading toward the Clarion River.
Along the wild and scenic Clarion River
A 13-mile stretch of the Clarion River flows right through Cook Forest, and it's become the heart of the park's water activities. The river winds through narrow valleys for 115 miles total, but this particular section is perfect for a variety of water activities like fishing and kayaking. With an average downward flow of about 4 miles per hour, the Clarion River is classified as a gentle Class 1 river — perfect for beginners. Outfitters like Cook Forest Canoe Rental and Pale Whale Canoe Fleet can set you up with everything you need. If you'd rather take your car, you can go along River Road which runs parallel to the water and makes for a gorgeous drive with plenty of spots to pull over for a picnic or just to watch the river flow by.
After spending the day on the water, you'll find some delightful spots to refuel right along the riverbank. Cook Forest Wines sits directly on the banks of the Clarion River, serving local wines alongside craft beers from Clarion River Brewing Company. Their famous wine slushies have become something of a legend among visitors, and it's exactly what you want after paddling in the summer heat. There's also the Cooksburg Cafe, serving 38 flavors of Hershey's ice cream along with burgers, sandwiches, and their famous fresh-cut fries. Everything's made to order, and you can enjoy it all while you sit and watch the river.
If you want to stay overnight, the Clarion River Lodge is nestled right in the heart of the park along the river. The lodge started as a private estate in the 1950s and now offers 20 themed rooms that fit the magical forest vibe. You get your own fire pit on the patio, access to the private riverbank for sunrise and sunset, and they even organize activities like otter watching. Owner Vic Milko restored the place himself as a labor of love, and it shows in every detail — from the native cut stone and oak beams to the cathedral ceilings that echo the forest canopy outside.