What It's Like To Travel To Ukraine's 'Paris Of The East' Now

There have always been many reasons to visit Lviv, a beautiful city full of history in western Ukraine. It's known for its rich cultural energy, its UNESCO World Heritage status, and its legacy as a literary and intellectual hub in Europe's second-largest country by area. Lviv's architecture has been well preserved — an eclectic mix of Renaissance, Baroque, Art Nouveau, Gothic, and more. The Old Town features cobblestone streets, a clock tower, bars and cafes, bookstores, and an opera house. High above the city sits Vysokyi Zamok, an ancient castle with sweeping views; nearby, historic Lychakiv Cemetery is an open-air museum. Lviv is also the coffee capital of Ukraine, well paired with handmade chocolates found throughout the city in artisan shops and bakeries. It is a clean, walkable city – a romantic's dream. When Rick Steves visited in 2019, he described Rynok Square as "Euro-cozy," surrounded by colorful facades, stone squares, and ornate fountains, where you could spend days — and keep coming back.

Lviv — pronounced "lyah-VIEW" (or "luh-VEEV" by English speakers), had long been considered very safe to visit in modern times, but it has been significantly impacted by the Russian war since Russia's full-scale invasion in 2022. Located just 46 miles from Poland's border — closer than Kyiv, about 335 miles away — it has sustained less damage than many eastern cities, and has become a humanitarian and logistics hub for the country. Now more than three years in, Lviv continues to serve displaced persons and NGOs, repurposing restaurants and cafes once teeming with tourists, while trying to preserve a sense of prewar normalcy for residents. But as the war creeps westward, Lviv has faced missile strikes and drone attacks as Russia targets infrastructure and resolve. As a result, the U.S. State Department currently lists Ukraine as a Level 4 — "Do Not Travel."

"A big misconception ... is that all of Ukraine is one giant, Dantean 9th Circle of Hell strewn with battered and bruised bodies, land mines and World War I-style trenches, where epic battles are fought on the daily," wrote travel writer Vinicius Costa on Travel Off Path. They visited Lviv for two days in 2025 and praised the city's sites, from the City Hall Tower to the medieval Armenian Cathedral. "If you're one of those people, my answer to you is, life isn't a war movie," they added.

Lviv continues to function much like it did before the invasion: Cafes, restaurants, shops, cultural sites, hotels, museums, and public transit remain open. Travelers report walking freely and enjoying the city, though some note higher prices. A wartime curfew from midnight until 5 a.m. limits nightlife; businesses must close, and anyone outside can be detained by police unless they have a valid reason. "There are some air alerts at night from time to time ... so you have to be ready for that," posted user u/kaatielu on Reddit. "But they were harmless for Lviv city for some time already (again, thanks God)." 

A Norwegian expat noted a main difference since the invasion has been the frequent loss of power, as damaged infrastructure from missiles has resulted in rolling blackouts throughout Ukraine. Another traveler wrote on Tripadvisor in early 2024: "I realized it was business as usual in the city ... hardly touched by the war. Everything was normal except the fact that there was a 12:00 midnight curfew and some of the statues in Old Town were covered up to prevent any damage in case of any bombings." Entry to the castle remains closed, but the clock tower reopened in spring 2025.

Getting to Ukraine during wartime still poses risks. In 2025, CNN's Fareed Zakaria described the "new sense of anxiety" during a trip to Ukraine, greater even than just after the 2022 invasion. At the Polish airport where he landed, flights were halted due to Russian missile strikes, and he was briefly detained. Once in Kyiv, he downloaded an air-alert app, also recommended by Reddit users. "Surrender is not really an option ... People just seem resigned to a grim, long fight," Zakaria reported of the local mood. Vinicius Costa explored storied attractions and requisite cafes during their time in Lviv. "The human tragedy is immeasurable and should be our primary concern as this ungodly conflict rages on they wrote. "Still, I would argue damage to centuries upon centuries of amassed heritage ... cannot be so easily reassembled once it's reduced to rubbles." 

Ukraine has closed all civilian airports and restricted its airspace. Missile strikes have damaged much of the country's civil aviation infrastructure, though Lviv hopes to resume operations once it is safe. Travelers to Lviv typically arrive by train through Poland, Hungary, or Romania. On Reddit, user u/akvit, recommended, "Get to Przemysl, Poland, then there's a train going straight to Kharkiv through Lviv, Kyiv and Poltava." Another, u/Pennsylvanier, agreed, and advised bringing sunscreen: "Polish border control doesn't mess around ... you'll be out in the sun for a while." User u/staryjdido penned, "Ukrainian-American here ... I always use Chop on the Ukrainian-Hungarian border ... FLIXBUS a great service provider."

If you do go to Lviv, pack the essentials, follow local guidelines, and stay informed. If you decide to wait until there's a conflict resolution, consider visiting Warsaw, Poland, also referred to as the Paris of the East, offering similar old-city vibes without war overhead.