Portugal's 'Seafood Paradise' Has Golden Beaches And Wild Architectural Swimming Pools That Fill With The Tides

With the lowest cost of living among Western European countries, Portugal has tons of stellar, affordable coastal destinations, from the stunning cliffs of mainland Europe's westernmost point to the historic city of Porto. But don't just stick to places that are the most well-known in Portugal. Just outside of central Porto is the beachy city of Matosinhos, where the relationship between culture and the sea is inseparable. Aptly called "Portugal's seafood paradise" by the travel blog Seaside with Emily, Matosinhos is bound to make you long for the waves.

In the mornings, fishermen drop their daily catch off at the Mercado de Matosinhos, a market full of fresh seafood and vegetables housed in a triumphant modernist building from 1952. Look closely at the building's ceramic panels at the front. They depict the seafaring heritage central to the market and to Matosinhos: women carrying baskets of fish, fishermen casting their nets. Historically, Matosinhos was a crucial nexus of both fishing and salt production, and it continues to be a significant fishing harbor. The city's oceanfront has also been mythologized in important local legends, including that of the Knight of Shells, which tells of a knight who encounters a boat carrying the body of the apostle Saint James and miraculously becomes covered in scallop shells.

Matosinhos's beaches are loved for their golden sands and clean water. One of the most popular is Praia de Matosinhos, if not for the lively atmosphere, then for its easy access from the city center. It's just a 10-minute walk from the center and right off the Matosinhos (Praia) stop on the bus 500 route, which proceeds from neighboring Porto. The beach is known for its soft sands and café-lined promenade. It's home to Janet Echelman's giant public sculpture called "She Changes," a billowing structural net that moves with the wind as a tribute to Matosinhos's fishermen.

Praia de Matosinhos can get a bit crowded, especially during peak season (travel expert Rick Steves recommends visiting Portugal in shoulder seasons for fewer crowds). Plus, its proximity to the city and the bustling port of Leixões can be off-putting to some. Luckily, Matosinhos's other beaches are wonderful alternatives. A bit south of Praia de Matosinhos, Praia Internacional, for example, is a quieter stretch of sand with ample space for tanning or going on a run. It's also a popular surfing spot, with several surf schools.

Then, there are the Leça da Palmeira beaches in the north of town. The twin beaches are gorgeous, full of rocky outcrops spilling out into the sea. But they're most famous for being home to the Leça Swimming Pool complex. Built in 1966 by architect Alvaro Siza, it comprises two pools, a café, and changing rooms. The pools were designed to blend into the rocky coastal landscape, with low-lying walls that make them appear as part of the water's edge. As the tide comes in, it rolls over the pools and gently fills them with seawater.

As a neighboring city to Porto, Matosinhos is easy to get to, whether you want to take a day trip or spend more time indulging in its fresh seafood and relaxing on the beach. It's just a 10- to 15-minute drive or a 40-minute bus ride from the Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport, Porto's main airport. Or, you could get to Matosinhos from central Porto in about 45 minutes by way of the bus 500, which departs from the São Bento railway station. In Matosinhos, most hotels cost under $200 per night, though some of the best places to stay are in the city's inns, which are often more homey and affordable (at time of writing).

If you want to try fresh seafood, Mercado de Matosinhos is a must-visit. Not only will you find a boundless supply of fish piled at colorful stalls, but several restaurants within the market hall will prepare dishes for you, supplied by the vendors. You can opt for grilled sea bass, a plate of clams tossed with olive oil, or a stew of shrimp and scallops, for example. Typically, you'll pay less than €10 ($12) for the preparation (at time of writing). Just make sure to bring cash.

There are many other terrific restaurants throughout Matosinhos, most of which specialize in seafood. Palato is a beloved local spot that earned a 2024 Traveler's Choice award from Tripadvisor, featuring a range of fish fillets served with unique accompaniments like pumpkin puree or lemon risotto. For something quicker and simpler, Restaurante Lage Senhor do Padrão serves generously portioned fish in a more casual setting.