Maine's Underrated Island Is A Scenic Escape With Pristine Coastal Views And Fresh Seafood

Maine's total shoreline encompasses about 3,500 miles due to its many islands and intricate, rocky coast. Often referred to as "Vacationland," the northeastern state has lured travelers to its islands for quintessential summer getaways on the East Coast with its refreshing temperatures, breathtaking natural beauty, and ultra-fresh seafood. In Penobscot Bay about 12 nautical miles from Rockland – one of Maine's best cities – lies North Haven, an idyllic island full of Maine's timeless treasures. For decades, the sleepy island was sustained by farming and fishing before boatbuilding became its primary industry. By the late 19th century, wealthy East Coasters and artists began to summer on the island, enchanted by its picturesque setting and secluded nature.

Today, North Haven is home to just over 400 year-round residents. But each summer, travelers seeking a quiet escape embark on the hour-long ferry ride to the charming isle, where they are greeted by a petite harbor lined with clapboard cottages. Separated by the Fox Channel from its bigger sister island of Vinalhaven, North Haven is anchored by North Haven Harbor to the south and Pulpit Harbor to the north. The inland is marked with rolling hills, dense forest, and sparkling ponds, while the rugged coast features coves, creeks, and sailboat harbors. The quiet island is dotted with just a handful of inns, restaurants, shops, and galleries.

Though North Haven requires some effort to reach, the island's rewards are well worth the journey. Every day, three round-trip ferries make the 70-minute cruise from Rockland to North Haven. To reach Rockland, the nearest airport is Knox County Regional Airport, which receives nonstop flights from Boston. Bangor International Airport and Portland International Jetport are both about an hour and 40-minute drive away from Rockland. Visitors can also fly directly into North Haven by private air taxi.

What to see and do in North Haven

Whether you visit North Haven for a day trip or a longer getaway, the island is rife with both active adventures and leisurely opportunities. After your arrival by ferry, stroll through the small yet quaint North Haven harbor. Don't miss a stop at the North Haven Gift Shop, stocked with monogrammed clothing, home decor, books, jewelry, and more, and Hopkins Wharf Gallery, which exhibits Maine seascapes by local artists. To learn more about the history of North Haven, drive five minutes down Main Street to the North Haven Historical Museum and Archives, which showcase the island's evolution over the past centuries.

For more athletic pursuits, head out to some of the island's nature trails, such as the loop winding around the forested shoreline at Burnt Island, which is only accessible at low tide. Avid explorers can also hike to the summit of Ames Knob, North Haven's highest granite peak that offers panoramic vistas from the top. Golfers can tee off at the historic nine-hole North Haven Golf Club, open from May to November. Biking is also a great way to traverse North Haven, with about 30 miles of paths lacing throughout the island. In summer, beach lovers should spend the day at Mullen Head Park,  home to the sandy cove of Big Beach, or head westward to Narrow Place Beach overlooking the west Penobscot Bay. If you want to get out on the water, book a custom sailing charter with Blue Yonder Sail Charters on the Tammy Norie, an elegant 40-foot wooden sailboat, to glide through Penobscot Bay.

Staying and dining in North Haven

While North Haven can be easily visited on a day trip from the mainland with plenty of accommodations in Rockland or nearby Camden, as an under-the-radar scenic beach town, it's worth staying a few nights to acclimate to this island's special rhythms. In the heart of North Haven harbor is Nebo Lodge, a charming nine-room inn. Open from Memorial Day weekend to mid-October, this boutique hideaway is the ideal base for a couples' or friends' trip. Starting at around $200 per night, the light-filled rooms are decked out in a sea-inspired palette, and a complimentary breakfast is included. For large families and groups needing more space, the island's Turner Farm has a spacious guest house that's available to rent weekly during the summer, as well as a campsite for those who want to immerse in nature.

Even if you don't stay at Nebo Lodge, book a table at their acclaimed restaurant, which serves locally-sourced farm and sea-to-table dinners. "It's the heart & soul of North Haven — where everyone gathers for regular and special occasions," raved a Tripadvisor reviewer, "When they didn't have lobster on the menu, they arranged for a local lobsterman to personally deliver one and then set us up on the porch with all the tools to enjoy it for dinner." Besides Nebo Lodge, which offers the most sophisticated dining experience on island (reservations are essential!), another convivial watering hole is North Haven Brewing at Calderwood Hall for fresh brews and pizza. Another local favorite is the Landing, open for lunch serving burgers, fresh fish sandwiches, and more, as well as Sunday dinner. For provisions head to North Haven Inn and Market, which also serves a three-course Monday night dinner, or visit Turner Farm's farmstand, stocked with fresh produce.

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