World-Class Art And Busy Nightlife Make Houston's Most Eclectic Neighborhood A Creative Powerhouse
You don't have to go to artsy Marfa, known as Texas' most unique town, to take in creative vibes. Just visit Houston. Montrose, perhaps Houston's most eclectic neighborhood, is one of Texas' best places to see world-class art, have an exceptional meal, and participate in a busy nightlife.
Historically known as Houston's "Gayborhood," you used to find quirky sights that spoke to the area's heritage, such as the rollerblading dancer who set up most days at the corner of Montrose Boulevard and Allen Parkway, and its now-shuttered local supermarket, long identified as "Disco Kroger." But while Montrose is no longer as queer as it once was, its former denizens' flair for the imaginative is still firmly in place.
Located just west of the center of Houston's bustling inner-loop and the lively urban neighborhood of Midtown, Montrose is about half an hour's drive from both George Bush Intercontinental Airport and the smaller William P. Hobby Airport. If you have the scratch, stay at the recently revitalized La Colombe d'Or, the only hotel in Montrose proper. It will cost you around $400 a night, but it puts you close to the party and has its own art collection. Those looking to pay less would be well advised to try nearby Hotel Zaza in the Museum District, a neighborhood also worth visiting for the large collections at the Houston Museum of Natural Sciences and the Museum of Fine Arts Houston (MFAH).
Get some culture in Montrose
Some would argue that the Menil Collection in Montrose is an even better destination for art than the larger MFAH. Part of its appeal? It's free to see its more than 20,000 works. Though the collection has items spanning from prehistory to today, the museum is known best for its surrealist art, which includes many works by René Magritte and Max Ernst. When you're done viewing masterpieces, join locals in lazing in Menil Park, which is dotted with sculptures of its own.
There, you'll also find Rothko Chapel. Named for abstract expressionist Mark Rothko, the space is home to 14 of his color-wash paintings, all in a variety of shades of black. On the National Register of Historic Places since 2000, locals know the architecturally significant art space as a place for human rights demonstrations and mindfulness workshops. Like the Menil, it's free to visit.
While you're in the neighborhood, walk over to Sicardi | Ayers | Bacino, a gallery that focuses on works from Latin America, including everything from canvas paintings to ceramics. Not as close to the Menil, but still worth visiting, Art League Houston is a gallery space that also offers classes in diverse disciplines such as metalsmithing, figure drawing, and photography. Conveniently, it's right next to Texas Art Supply, meaning it's a one-stop shop for aspiring masters.
Montrose comes alive at night
The excellence of the cuisine in Montrose can't be overstated. James Beard Foundation Award-nominated ChòpnBlọk is the latest in a long line of international restaurants in the area to win fans — and awards. There, West African flavors are served in hefty bowls like the Buka, which combines spiced beef short ribs with plantains over rice and beans. Retired football star JJ Watt has named the creative Japanese spot Katami one of his favorite restaurants in the world. For upscale Mexican fare, head to Hugo's, which has been turning out ingenious Pueblan-inspired dishes since 2002. For a treat that combines some of the best barbecue and tacos in the city, the Pit Room is a must.
There are ample reasons that Houston was voted America's No. 2 "Sin City" behind Las Vegas. Gluttony is one of them, but it's No. 1 for lust. To get that going, you've got to meet people, and Montrose's nightlife makes it easy. Seeking creative types? Whiskey bar Poison Girl is famous for its Poison Pen reading series, where the bar encourages local writers to share their work. Divey Rudyard's has its own The Riot Comedy Club, but is also a surprisingly good place to eat along with your beer, thanks to options that range from a Japanese Akaushi steak finger basket to Detroit-style pizza.
You'll find unique cultural events at classy Boheme. They include drag shows at brunch and Havana Nights that feature Cuban music and drinks every Tuesday. Tiki bar The Toasted Coconut is one of the latest in Montrose's long line of places to get excellent drinks. Try the Banana Hammock, which combines dark rum, cold brew, banana liqueur, and banana foam for a uniquely bittersweet tipple. Houston is a city with much to love, but setting yourself up in Montrose exposes you to many of its brightest highlights.