Nestled Between Rome And Pisa Lies Italy's Overlooked Commune With Medieval Charm And Rich History

Tucked into the lush rolling slopes between Rome and Pisa (whose iconic tower is a wildly disappointing attraction), the commune of Chiusdino rises atop a hill between the Merse Valley and the Metalliferous Hills. It was founded in the Middle Ages and is famed for being the birthplace of Saint Galgano, a knight-turned-saint who gave up his sword and plunged it into a rock to show his change of heart. That sword can still be seen today at the Hermitage of Montesiepi.

Located in the Province of Siena, Chiusdino's history dates back to the Lombard period, when fortifications and small settlements started popping up in the area. Today, it still has medieval charm, with red and white brick buildings, stone alleys, and a centuries-old abbey like no other. While it's not as well-known as some of Tuscany's most popular attractions, such as Florence, the most walkable city in the world and an art-filled historic gem, Chiusdino is just as enchanting for travelers seeking history and local culture.

You can conveniently reach Chiusdino with a two-hour drive from Pisa or a three-hour drive from Rome; public transport via bus and train is also available, but these options can take much longer. As visitors wander through the commune's narrow lanes, they will pass stone houses, cobbled steep stairways, and terraces filled with planters adorned by flowers. Just beyond the rooftops, hills unfold into vineyards and olive groves. At the heart of Chiusdino is the church of San Michele Arcangelo. It became a provostry in 1733 and was restored in the early 2000s. One of its most intriguing features is a reliquary that's said to contain the skull of Saint Galgano within the church's bell tower.

About 20 minutes east of Chiusdino is the once-thriving Abbey of San Galgano. Built in the 13th century by Cistercian monks, it served as one of the most important monasteries in the region. Today, it stands in ruins. What makes it unforgettable is that its roof has long since disappeared — all that's left are columns and stone walls standing in the open air.

After a day of exploring, head back to Chiusdino's historic center, especially the neighborhood of Portino, where centuries-old buildings still exist. In Piazza Garibaldi, visitors can take in the views over the valley. Close by, the medieval streets form a maze, where children play and cats roam freely. Nestled into corners of the commune are trattorias and osterias that serve up local dishes. Visitors will find pasta topped with wild boar, sheep's milk cheeses, and fresh salads tossed with locally grown greens. Much of what ends up on plates comes from the nearby farmlands, which keeps the flavors seasonal.

Tuscany is the absolute best destination in Italy for wine lovers, and the countryside around Chiusdino offers plenty of opportunities for tastings. A five-minute drive from Piazza Garibaldi, La Via dell'Oliviera is an agriturismo destination that hosts tastings of wine from the surrounding areas. A short drive east, Saporium Chiusdino at Borgo Santo Pietro provides views of the Tuscan hills, along with a wine list featuring 1,200 labels from regional and international producers. Whether travelers come to wine, dine, or explore, Chiusdino is a rewarding stop.