Italy's Little-Known Village Is A Mountain Gem Perched On High Peaks Above The Glittering Sea

One of the most famous destinations in southern Italy is Positano, a gorgeous town of vibrant, rainbow-colored houses on the hills of the Amalfi coast. But perched high above Positano is a little-known Italian village called Nocelle, peeking out from between rugged mountains, lush forests, and the sparkling turquoise hues of the Tyrrhenian Sea. About 1,476 feet above sea level, Nocelle's narrow cobbled alleys thread through stone houses, little terraces, lemon groves, and vineyards, with sweeping views of the sea all the way to the island of Capri. The highlight for many visiting Nocelle is the hiking path Sentiero degli Dei, or Path of the Gods, with scenic Amalfi coast views. This path ends in Nocelle.

Aside from the obvious magnetism of Nocelle — elevated, far-reaching vistas from the peaks of the Lattari Mountains, and exceptional access to the local hiking trails — it also benefits from being just secluded enough from Positano to not suffer the same high-season crowds. But to get to Nocelle from Positano, you'll need to hike up the 1700 steps that connect them. Alternatively, you can drive, following the narrow mountain roads past the village of Montepertuso, to a small parking lot in Nocelle, and there are taxis available. But a better option is the local Mobility Amalfi Coast Buses, which can help you safely complete the rather steep ascent and descent should you need.

The legendary Sentiero degli Dei hiking route ends its journey in Nocelle, which is the preferred direction, as then the hilly, view-laden route is mostly downhill. But if you're staying in Nocelle, you can simply follow the route in reverse, hiking up to the village of Bomerano in the Agerola region, which, with its picturesque hillsides draped in deep greens and houses looming over impeccable mountain views, is often referred to as little Switzerland. While you could take a taxi back to Nocelle in around 1 hour and 18 minutes, you can also hike back via the same route, which in this direction has even more dramatic views of the coastline as you approach Positano. The Sentiero degli Dei hike is around 4 miles and takes around 2 hours each way.

Nocelle's heart is a cluster of narrow stone alleys and steps, with shrines to the Virgin Mary and hand-painted signs on picturesque houses, some given bursts of color by pots of flowers and bright bougainvillea climbing the walls. Stroll to the Church of Santa Croce, and take a break on the tiny square with its breathtaking Tyrrhenian Sea views, which serves as something of a gathering spot when the Lemon Point drink stand (serving freshly squeezed juices and beers) is busy with hikers refuelling after conquering the Sentiero degli Dei.

There aren't as many options for food in Nocelle as there are down in Positano, but La Tagliata, just a short distance away in Montepertuso, is ideal for romantic dinners with a view. This family-run farm and restaurant serves rustic Italian dishes, platters full of grilled meats, and handmade pasta on an unfussy terrace overlooking the vineyards stitched into the hills above the Mediterranean.

Nocelle's closest major airport is the Naples-Capodichino International Airport, 38 miles away and around a 65-minute drive. If you're already in Italy, then you can also connect to Nocelle by public transport to Naples from many of Italy's bigger cities, including Florence and Rome, the city we think is the best place to begin a vacation in Italy. Once you arrive in Naples, the best route to reach Nocelle is via ferry from Naples Beverello to the Port of Positano, which takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes. Bear in mind there's no ticket office in Positano, therefore you'll need to purchase your return tickets in advance on the NLG ferry's website or from the office in Naples. Once in Positano, you can either hike the 1,700 steps up to Nocelle, take the Mobility Amalfi Coast Buses (you'll need to pay a nominal extra fee if you have luggage), or take a taxi.

There are no hotels in Nocelle, though you'll find a handful of private villa rentals, apartments (many with sublime sea views), and a bed and breakfast or two. But if you'd prefer a more traditional hotel experience while visiting Nocelle, then you'll need to stay down the mountain in Positano. The town has a range of options, including the excellent Le Sirenuse, a family-owned gem and one of the Amalfi Coast's most celebrated luxury hotels.