Connecticut's Woodland Escape Is A New England Sanctuary Of Majestic Pines And Quiet Trails

The largest and tallest trees in the United States are all in California: the gigantic General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park, and coast redwoods in the otherworldly forests of Redwood National Park. But the East Coast also boasts some impressive trees, including those in Cathedral Pines Preserve in West Cornwall, Connecticut, home to New England's largest stand of old-growth white pine and hemlock trees. 

The 42-acre forest is aptly named, with quiet trails and towering trees that reach more than 150 feet into the air. Sadly, many of its majestic pines were destroyed by a series of tornadoes in July 1989, but the forest is slowly coming back to life, and its regrowth has been an ongoing subject of study for ecologists from the conservation nonprofit The Nature Conservancy. 

Acclaimed writer Michael Pollan covers the topic at length in his book "Second Nature: A Gardener's Education," using the case of Cathedral Pines to discuss environmental ethics and ecological restoration. "Before the storm, we used to come to Cathedral Pines and imagine that this was how the New World forest looked to the first settlers," Pollan wrote. "It's conceivable that we could restore Cathedral Pines to something closely resembling its actual precolonial condition."

The best way to experience the ethereal Cathedral Pines — and to appreciate the forest's gradual rejuvenation — is to explore it on a hike. The 5.5-mile Cathedral Pines and Mohawk Mountain Trail loops through the reserve's wooded landscapes, passing beneath tall pine trees that are up to 300 years old. The trail leads to a lookout point with picnic tables and sweeping views over the green hills. With an elevation gain of about 1,200 feet, the hike is moderate in difficulty and takes about 3 hours to complete. Wear bug spray, and keep your eyes open for woodpeckers and owls. Neither bicycles nor pets are permitted in the preserve, so you'll have to leave your furry friends at home. 

After the hike, grab a bite to eat in nearby West Cornwall, about a 10-minute drive from the trailhead. RSVP is an elegant French restaurant with a BYOB policy, while the Pink House serves gourmet comfort food in a stylish indoor-outdoor setting. If you'd like to stay overnight in the area, consider the Cornwall Inn (from around $200 per night in summer), a cozy bed-and-breakfast framed by the woods. 

Bradley International Airport near Hartford is just over an hour away by car, and you'll want one to navigate the region, as it's not well served by public transportation. And if you're exploring the area on a road trip, take in the best of New England's charm on this picturesque fall road trip route. Another smart stop is the nearby Mohawk State Park and Forest, with its stunning views of the Taconic and Berkshire Mountains.