Hidden Near Nevada's Humboldt Mountains Is A Nearly-Abandoned Mine Town Full Of Art

In central Nevada, the shadow of an eagle's wings soars above a strange monument outside an almost abandoned railroad town. Imlay may not be a name that many folks know, but Thunder Mountain is widely recognized. It's a roadside folk art installation that began as the obsessive dream of the man who built it. Situated on the northern edge of the Humboldt Mountains, Imlay is a tiny town of just over 120 people, which was once a stop on the United States' first transcontinental railroad that stretched from Nebraska to California. 

The Central Pacific Railroad, in charge of the western portion of the transcontinental railroad, made Imlay a terminal and roundhouse location, which led to a brief period of growth in the early 20th century. The rise of the diesel engine marked the decline of the town, which fell into further disarray once the railroad stopped using its facilities.

You won't find much in the way of the town's railroad history other than a few ruins, but what makes people stop is Thunder Mountain, a meandering monument to Indigenous cultures made up of scraps and junkyard materials. Smithsonian Magazine describes it as "part sculpture garden, part backyard fort, part Death Valley theme park." Sculptures of Indigenous figures like the Aztec god Quetzalcoatl and Sarah Winnemucca, a 19th-century Paiute writer, interpreter, and activist beckon visitors in, while car windshields used as windowpanes and glass bottles sparkle under the hot desert sun. 

Imlay is less than two hours from Reno, while Winnemucca and Lovelock are both just about 30 minutes away, making this a must-see stop for travelers cruising the vibrant wild west route of Nevada's famous Cowboy Corridor.

The history of Thunder Mountain is as interesting as the site itself. It was created by Frank Van Zant, who considered himself to be part of the Creek nation, and took on the name Chief Rolling Thunder. Van Zant lived many lives before Thunder Mountain: he had a stint in the U.S. army during World War II, and later became a Methodist pastor, sheriff's deputy, and a forest ranger. 

In 1968, Van Zant headed to Nevada with his wife and while his stories about landing at Imlay differ — in one, he said an eagle visited him in a dream and told him to build a nest there, while in another, he said that his car broke down at the site — the result was the same: a monument built of all the materials he could find, which added Imlay to the list of Nevada's near-abandoned towns with quirky roadside attractions.

Thunder Mountain began as a one-room trailer, but it soon stretched three stories into the sky and included structures like a work shed, hostel, and a surreal playground. Typewriters, televisions, and helmets were added as a way to honor the Indigenous practice of not wasting any materials. Van Zant covered the monument with depictions of the atrocities committed against Native Americans, turning it into a large-scale monument.

The monument became a commune, attracting hippies and counter-culture folks, but it started falling apart in the '80s as its residents left and a suspected arson damaged or destroyed all of the monument-adjacent buildings. Van Zant's wife left with his children and in 1989, after a period of depression, he took his own life in the roundhouse.

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After Frank Van Zant's death, the monument fell into disrepair and neglect, subjected to the elements of both nature and people, as vandals came to destroy it and others came to drink and tell ghost stories. Eventually, his son Dan took over Thunder Mountain and has been working to maintain it. While the inside isn't open to visitors, you can explore the outside, where you'll find Van Zant's concrete-made sculptures and fascinating details galore. 

Thunder Mountain is open 24/7 but since there's no lighting on the premises, it's best to visit during the daytime so you can properly see it and also avoid stumbling over its parts. The site is donation-based, so be sure to bring cash or a check, as it's through these contributions that it's able to stay open.

A visit to Thunder Mountain can be combined with a stop in nearby Winnemucca, an often overlooked Nevada city known for its cowboy culture and Basque cuisine. Ormachea's Basque House is a local favorite, with users giving it a 4.7-star rating on Yelp thanks to its friendly staff, old school atmosphere, and tasty menu, while the Martin Hotel is a historic institution, which has served Basque food since the early 1900s.