Beside Yellowstone's East Entrance Is A Hidden Community Full Of Wildlife, Ethereal Views, And Cozy Stays
As you make the famous drive from Cody toward Yellowstone's east entrance, you'll pass through a valley that feels like a prelude to the park itself. This is Wapiti, though you won't find a town center or main street here, but you will discover a quiet community spread along the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. This is a route that follows the North Fork of the Shoshone River as it weaves through forests and mountains. The valley that Wapiti is in stretches with family-run ranches, cabins, and small guest spots that go back nearly a century. The name Wapiti comes from the Shawnee and Cree word meaning "white rump," a nod to the elk that still graze this part of the state.
As you drive through Wapiti, you'll likely see wildlife along the side of the road (maybe on the road) or near the river. The Shoshone National Forest surrounds this area, filling the valley with all sorts of beautiful trees and trails. The Absaroka Mountains rise behind it, with snow-capped peaks even into early summer. You might spot some sheep hanging out on the cliffs, and you're almost guaranteed to see a bear (like a black or grizzly bear) crossing in the distance. You should definitely keep an eye out and stand clear of these beautiful (and potentially dangerous) animals.
This part of Park County, Wyoming, is where you'll likely hear the river before sunrise and see the first light hit the ridges of the Absarokas. Wapiti is between Cody and Yellowstone, yet it has its own quiet feel that lets you slow down and take everything in, while giving you a plethora of activities to get into.
What to do and see in Wapiti
You'll find that Wapiti has plenty to experience, whether you're here for a few hours or a full stay. When you're looking for some of the best places to spot wildlife, you'll find it's one of the main draws, and you might see eagles or moose near the water's edge, or other adorable animals at Yellowstone National Park. Shoshone National Forest holds one of the largest bighorn sheep populations in the lower 48 states, so it's a regular occurrence to see them nearby. For hikers, photographers, or anyone who enjoys quiet trails, the scenery changes constantly with the light, making every stop you make feel different.
Along the byway, you'll come across several landmarks worth a short visit, like the Smith Mansion. It's one of the most recognizable in the area, built by a single craftsman over many years using logs from the nearby forest. The Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor Center is another highlight, with views of the canyon. You can visit the Holy City rock formations, named for their natural spire shapes, and as you keep driving west toward Yellowstone, the byway reaches Sylvan Pass.
If you enjoy outdoor activities, the Wapiti Ranger District keeps up several trails that blend history and recreation. The Pahaska–Sunlight Trail and the Elk Fork Trail are popular for both hiking and horseback riding, while the Blackwater Fire Memorial Trail honors the firefighters who died in a fire in the early 1900s. You can spend a morning fishing in the North Fork of the Shoshone River or book a whitewater rafting trip when the snowmelt is high. In winter, the area is popular for skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing, although the popular Sleeping Giant Ski Area is temporarily closed at the time of writing.
Where to stay when visiting Wapiti
When you stay in Wapiti, you'll quickly notice that the places to stay are part of what makes the area special. The guest ranches here feel authentic, each with its own long history, like the UXU Ranch, which has been open since 1929. It includes horseback riding and riverside cabins that reflect classic Western design. The Bill Cody Ranch, founded in 1925, has creekside cabins and serves home-style meals to guests. Rand Creek Ranch brings a mix of modern and traditional style, with family-run cabins that look toward Jim Mountain.
If you want more of a rustic lodge stay, there are several to choose from, like the Historic Wapiti Lodge. It also has its own restaurant and bar for a tasty bite or quick snack to grab if you're passing through, or a shot of the local firewater. The Elephant Head Lodge, established by Buffalo Bill Cody's niece in 1910, is recognized on the National Register of Historic Places. The Yellowstone Valley Inn combines hotel-style rooms, rustic cabins, and an RV park. You'll find The Four Bear Restaurant and Saloon there, along with a morning coffee bar that opens early for those heading toward Yellowstone.
Eycat Lodging Company has cabins and wagons with shared bathhouses, or you can rent cabins in the area from sites like VRBO or the Cody Lodging Company. About 25 minutes away in Cody, you'll have Pure Heart Retreat, where you can have a glamping-style respite. Most properties serve meals on-site, so you can start your day with coffee and end it with a simple dinner by the fire. By the time you leave, you'll understand why so many travelers return to this valley.