West Virginia's Once-Thriving Historic Train Town Is Now A Hidden Gem In The New River Gorge

Hidden within the rocky valleys of the New River Gorge, one of the most breathtaking national parks on the East Coast, the town of Thurmond feels like a place that has been frozen in time. Its centuries-old brick buildings, abandoned coaling tower, and train depot serve as reminders of a once-thriving railroad and coal industry. Today, most of Thurmond is maintained by the National Park Service as a preserved historic site for visitors who are curious about its past.

Thurmond began its rise in the early 1900s, when large amounts of coal flowed through the town thanks to nearby mines. During its prime, Thurmond handled more freight revenue for the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway than many larger cities. Approximately 15 passenger trains a day rolled through, and the town's depot served as many as 75,000 passengers yearly. Its banks, stores, hotels, and saloons kept up with the demands of rail workers and coal operators. Thurmond also had an Engine House. There, up to 70 men were employed around the clock to repair locomotives and railcars.

However, as technology changed, Thurmond's fortunes declined. The town was built around steam-powered rail. So, when diesel locomotives replaced steam engines in the 1950s, Thurmond couldn't keep up. Fires and the Great Depression also pushed many businesses and residents away. By the mid-20th century, Thurmond's population had drastically dwindled. As of 2023, just five residents live in the town, but thousands of tourists still visit to explore the historic buildings and get a glimpse of what life used to be like there.

The streets of Thurmond today are mainly quiet. Occasionally, the rumble of an Amtrak or coal train breaks the silence. As part of the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, NPS owns about 80% of the town, including the Thurmond Depot. Built in 1904, the depot originally served multiple purposes: a passenger station, railroad offices, and a center for coal operations. Due to NPS' restoration efforts, the two-story yellow wooden building has been returned to its early 1900s appearance. It now functions as a visitor center with exhibits that share the town's railroad history.

The depot is a key stop on the NPS app's free self-guided walking tour of Thurmond. The half-mile round-trip path takes visitors across uneven brick and gravel pavement to several significant historic sites. One of the highlights is the 1922 cement coaling tower that once held up to 500 tons of coal. Nearby are the remaining brick walls of the Lafayette Hotel. In 1902, the hotel featured steam heat and a dining room that could seat up to 60 guests.

The tour also includes the former National Bank of Thurmond. After closing during the Great Depression, the building became a dry goods store. Later, it was converted into a club with a hotel and restaurant until it closed in 1988. Not far from there is the Mankin-Cox Building. This facility once held a variety of businesses, including a dentist's office, pharmacy, pizza shop, and an arts and crafts store.

The closest major airport to Thurmond is in Charleston, located in the heart of West Virginia's Appalachia. Travelers can fly into West Virginia International Yeager Airport and then drive nearly 70 miles southeast to reach the town. Another option for domestic visitors is Raleigh County Memorial Airport in Beckley, one of the state's affordable mountain towns. From there, the scenic drive to Thurmond is about 24 miles.

For those who prefer traveling by train, the Amtrak Cardinal line offers a route through the New River Gorge with a stop in Thurmond three times a week. The depot is unstaffed but still accessible to visitors, mainly on the weekends. Cell service in the area can be limited, so it's a good idea to print directions or download offline maps before arriving. Visitors planning to stay overnight can find a few campsites and cabins close to Thurmond, along with historic inns in nearby towns and cities. Whether travelers are just passing through or staying the night, Thurmond is a great stop for curious minds who appreciate history surrounded by nature.