Why Tourists Avoid Scampia, The Naples Neighborhood Fighting Its Old Reputation

Anytime you visit a major city abroad, it's natural to have questions about what neighborhoods are safe to visit. Some places have reputations that precede them, and it's up to us to investigate and discover the truth. This is particularly necessary in Naples, where stereotypes about danger and dirtiness run rampant on the internet. Take the northern neighborhood of Scampia, which gained a notorious reputation as a haven for illegal activity thanks to the book-turned-television series "Gomorrah."

Set inside the area's infamous Le Vele (The Sails), a set of seven enormous affordable housing complexes built in the 1960s and named after their shape, the series perhaps made Scampia known to an international audience, but for the wrong reasons — and as a result, some tourists may skip the area altogether. While it's true that Scampia's original ideals as a housing utopia were foiled shortly after completion, thanks to poor construction and maintenance – which allowed the Camorra (Neapolitan mafia) to take hold — times are changing. In fact, Campania, where Naples is located, is far from the most unsafe part of Italy.

Today, these enormous cement triangles, a prime example of Brutalist architecture, have all but disappeared. Four of the original seven were demolished several years ago due to their poor condition, and two of the remaining three were also torn down after a balcony collapsed in 2024, resulting in deaths and injuries. The remaining Vela stands as a symbol of what was and will be transformed into a civic space.

All of this is great, but what does it mean if you are interested in visiting Scampia on your next trip to Italy? Is it safe? And what is the best way to see what it has to offer and truly understand its history? The best option is to tour the neighborhood with a local, and thankfully, Scampia Trip Tour has been providing this service since 2017. Writer and musician Daniele Sanzone, who grew up in Scampia, leads the tours to show visitors a side of his neighborhood beyond the stereotypes perpetuated by shows like "Gomorrah."

The 90-minute tour begins at the colorful Piscinola-Scampia subway stop, which connects the area to central Naples. From there, Sanzone unfolds the tale of his neighborhood, allowing tourists to learn about the true spirit of Scampia's residents and those who have always worked to create positivity even when the area faced issues. Stops include a community center that organizes the neighborhood's traditional Carnival festival each year, a soccer club that fosters positive recreation through sport for the area's youths, and ends with a tasting at Chikù. This unique female-owned restaurant combines Italian and Romani cuisine as a way to show the embrace between these two cultures. 

Of course, Le Vele — or what is left of them — will also be covered, and while this tour is most decidedly not a "Gomorrah" tour, Sanzone uses his insight to explain the sensitive history of the neighborhood. Starting at just €30 per person, it's well worth booking to learn more about Scampia beyond the headlines and see the incredible rebirth that the neighborhood is undergoing thanks to its residents and rejuvenation projects like ReStart Scampia, which is leading the way to create new housing and sustainable public spaces for the area's residents.

While you won't find Naples' major museums in Scampia, the 35-minute subway ride from downtown is worth it if you are looking to see a gritty, authentic suburb. Of course, just as in any urban center, you'll want to be vigilant about petty theft and protect yourself against pickpockets on your trip. And, as several people noted on Reddit, you will also want to be respectful of residents, who are all too aware of their neighborhood's reputation and prefer not to be photographed as though they were a tourist attraction.

When exiting the subway, take note of two beautifully executed murals by Neopolitan street artist Jorit.  These large portraits of political activist Angela Davis and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini serve as symbols of the residents' grit and determination to improve their neighborhood. For a good espresso and homemade baked good, try Caffetteria Zeus, a local favorite known for its delicious cornetti.

Note that while it's possible to arrive in Scampia with the metro, the neighborhood itself is quite large. For instance, the walk from the subway station to Caffetteria Zeus will take approximately 30 minutes. For this reason, it's also reasonable to consider hiring a taxi or private car to tour the neighborhood and make all your stops in this area ripe with renewal. Thanks to the hard work of the community, renewed housing, and a university opening in 2022, Scampia is moving toward building a new, fresh reputation far from the stereotypes of "Gomorrah."