Set The Tone For A Soulful Getaway With Blues Trails And River Views In Mississippi's Delta Heartland
Less than 100 miles south of the bright lights in Mississippi's gaming getaway of Tunica, you'll find yourself in the northwestern part of the Magnolia State in the heart of the Delta region, an area known for its lovely river views and as the birthplace of blues music. One town in this region, Greenwood, would make the perfect base while you explore the renowned Mississippi Blues Trail, a series of markers spread over the state that tell the story of blues music's emergence. The sleepy heartland town of Greenwood, with a population of less than 15,000 people, is small enough to feel like home and will set the tone for a soulful getaway.
Two airports are relatively close to Greenwood: the Mid-Delta Regional Airport in Greenville, Mississippi (56 miles away) or Jackson-Medgar Wiley Evers International Airport (104 miles away). From major cities in Mississippi, you can reach Greenwood by car via U.S. Highway 82 when traveling east/west and via U.S. Highway 49 on north/south routes. No matter how you get to Greenwood, prepare to be won over with southern hospitality once you arrive and while you learn about musical history and enjoy the natural scenic beauty of the Mississippi Delta.
There are numerous restaurants in Greenwood. Popular choices include Lusco's (seafood and steaks), the artisanal Fan and Johnny's (creative Southern cuisine, with dishes like freaky fried frog legs with lemon pepper vinaigrette), and Giardina's Restaurant (Italian and seafood). Lodging options are plentiful as well. Guests in Greenwood can stay in national chain hotels such as the Holiday Inn Express and Suites, Hampton Inn, and Comfort Suites. For a more pampered experience, check out the Alluvian Hotel, which has an on-site luxury spa that covers 7,000 square feet. Vacation rentals are also available in and around Greenwood for those wanting the privacy and convenience of a home or cottage for their stay.
The Mississippi Blues Trail
Greenwood is home to a number of historically significant locations on the Mississippi Blues Trail. Markers provide insight into places along the trail, in Greenwood and beyond, where blues icons were born, played, and died. For example, one marker in Berclair (only 14 miles from Greenwood) stands at the birthplace of blues legend B.B. King, while another marker is situated at the Little Zion Church right in Greenwood to commemorate the final resting place of bluesman Robert Johnson. The Baptist Town neighborhood of Greenwood played a huge role in the development of the Delta Blues, as it was a mecca for musicians. Throughout the enclave, gospel and blues music could be heard in various locations, including the Three Forks juke joint, where Robert Johnson and Honeyboy Edwards performed on a regular basis.
The legend of Robert Johnson is entrenched in Greenwood's history. According to folklore, he was poisoned at the Three Forks due to the romantic jealousy of a lover or her husband. There are also a number of locations in the town where Johnson was said to have sold his soul to the devil in exchange for becoming a master guitar player; a Blues Trail marker stands at the most likely site, which is at the intersection of U.S. Highway 61 and Money Road in Greenwood. With over 180 markers along the entire Mississippi Blues Trail, the odds are in your favor that no matter where you travel in Mississippi, you are close to at least one piece of blues history. For example, tourists traveling the Natchez Trace Parkway, one of the U.S.'s best and most affordable scenic road trips, will have the chance to explore several other sites important to the Delta blues.
Today, Greenwood continues to celebrate its blues and musical legacy by hosting the annual Rhythm on the Rails, a series of free outdoor concerts held on the first Fridays of March through June. In addition to the great musical acts, there are family-friendly activities and food and drink vendors (attendees are welcome to bring their own food and beverages).
River views and special events
In addition to its fascinating blues history, Greenwood and the entire state of Mississippi are also known to have some amazing river views. The state has over 81,000 miles of rivers and waterways, including major rivers like the Tombigbee, Pascagoula, Pearl, and — of course — the Mississippi. The Yazoo River is a tributary of the Mississippi River that flows right through Greenwood, and the riverfront area (particularly the Yazoo River Trail and Arboretum) is a beautiful place to spend some time in nature.
The picturesque Yazoo riverfront is also where many of Greenwood's annual events are held. Visit in the spring and take in some awesome riverfront vibes while enjoying Que on the Yazoo: a celebration of southern barbeque featuring pulled pork and racks of ribs smoked to perfection. The barbeque festival is two fun-filled days of mouthwatering food, family-friendly activities, music, and southern hospitality. If you happen to be in Greenwood around the 4th of July, be sure to stick around for the Stars and Stripes festival. Enjoyed by residents and visitors alike, the free festival has activities for the kids, live entertainment, fireworks, and a boat parade on the lovely river.
Looking for more river adventures before you leave Mississippi? The oldest city on the Mississippi River, Natchez is home to the Natchez Bluff Trail, which features stunning views of the Mississippi River.