One Of California's Least Visited Parks Is A Historic Coastal Cove With A Peaceful Memorial
Of the United States' 63 national parks, nine are located in California. And while lots of travelers are familiar with these popular destinations — including the Channel Islands, Yosemite, and Joshua Tree, home to one of the world's best sunset-viewing spots — fewer are aware of California's numerous national park units. According to the National Park Service, the category includes national historic landmarks, military parks, scenic trails, seashores, and more. One of the least-visited sites in the Golden State (and in the country) is Port Chicago Naval Magazine National Memorial in the Bay Area.
There's a good reason why few visitors make it to this waterfront memorial park — it's part of an active military base. Built in 1942, Port Chicago Naval Magazine was originally an ammunition shipment facility — the largest on the West Coast at the time. Just two years later, on July 17, 1944, tragedy unfolded at the site when an explosion killed 320 people and injured hundreds more. Sadly, many of the victims were African-American sailors who hadn't been properly trained to handle ammunition safely. The so-called Port Chicago disaster of World War II prompted a mutiny and ultimately shone a spotlight on the military's dangerous working conditions and racial discrimination.
Today, there's a peaceful memorial in place on a coastal cove on the Suisun Bay, part of the estuary fed by the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. Framed by rolling, grassy hills, Port Chicago Naval Magazine National Memorial faces views of the river delta and the uninhabited Roe Island across the water.
Plan a visit to Port Chicago
Since access to the site is carefully restricted, you'll have to plan ahead if you'd like to visit the national memorial in Port Chicago. Tours are available at 12:30 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays, but reservations by email are required at least two weeks in advance. Visitors must be able to show a government-issued ID. Tours, which last about 1.5 hours, depart from the John Muir National Historic Site in Martinez, California. If you're interested in learning more about Muir, the famed naturalist nicknamed the "father of the national parks," don't miss a visit to the Muir Woods National Monument, featuring the world's tallest tree species. It's located just north of Sausalito, about one hour and 15 minutes away by car from the historic site in Martinez.
Since you can't drive directly to the Port Chicago Naval Magazine National Memorial, it makes more sense to base yourself in Martinez. (It's also possible to day-trip from San Francisco, about an hour away by car, or 1.5 hours using public transportation). Muir Lodge Motel Martinez (rooms start from $109 per night) is a retro motel with an outdoor pool and a photogenic vintage sign. The nearby Best Western John Muir Inn (rooms from $104 per night) is another simple, budget-friendly option. Closer to the waterfront in downtown Martinez, go for a hearty breakfast before the tour at the highly-rated Copper Skillet Courtyard, or go for happy hour afterwards at Roxx on Main, a cheerful eatery and bar with inviting outdoor tables.