France's Gorgeous Car-Free Island Idyll Has Wild Coves, Village Shopping, And Vineyards

The luminous and luxurious French Riviera has long beckoned travelers to its dazzling coastline. While the French Riviera is not precisely defined, this glamorous region is generally bordered to the east by Menton and to the west by the French Riviera's underrated port city of Toulon. During the summer season along this nearly 100-mile stretch, the roads can get crowded, the reservations impossible, and the prices sky-high, but in-the-know travelers seeking serenity and sheer natural beauty should venture westward to Embiez, a peaceful 235-acre isle near Toulon. 

The island of Embiez and the nearby island of Bendor were purchased in the 1950s by wealthy entrepreneur Paul Ricard, who founded the Ricard pastis liquor company. Ricard was passionate about protecting the environment of this duo of islands and established the Paul Ricard Oceanographic Institute on Embiez. To this day, cars are only allowed to drive between the pier and your hotel on Embiez, and the island is mostly traversed on foot or by bike. Embiez is anchored by a petite marina, where there are a handful of accommodations, restaurants, and boutique shops. The rest of the island is a pristine and wild wonderland, ripe for exploration. Here, visitors can sunbathe on deserted coves, swim and kayak in crystalline waters, hike through nature trails to reach panoramic vistas, and stop at centuries-old vineyards where Provencal-style wines are still produced.

The island is accessible year-round by a 12-minute ferry ride from the port of Le Brusc in Six-Fours-les-Plages, a small commune on the coast just a 20-minute drive from Toulon. Embiez can also be reached by a 20-minute ferry between June and September from Sanary-sur-Mer, one of France's sunniest cities on the Riviera. The Marseille Provence Airport is a 70-minute drive west, and the Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport is a two-hour drive east. 

Due to the careful conservation measures originally implemented by Ricard, Embiez's Saint Pierre de Embiez port has earned Blue Flag status for high standards of environmental care. Nestled a few steps from the port is the island's singular sandy beach, Plage des Salins. Here, visitors can recline on the sand, swim in the calm, turquoise-hued waters, or rent watersports at the nearby Nautic Passion rental shop to explore the sea by paddleboard, kayak, sailboat, or wingfoil. Further afield on the southeastern coast is Crique du Coucoussa, an untouched pebble-strewn cove with placid, crystalline waters that is ideal for swimming and kayaking. Nearby, the Plage du Rix is another dramatically beautiful stretch that requires a steep and rocky descent down to the shore, so wear proper footwear. And don't miss the Plage des Allemands (German Beach), which overlooks Île du Grand Rouveau, where a mid-19th century lighthouse stands.

Active travelers can circumnavigate the island by foot or bike along a 3.5-mile trail, bypassing lush palms, rows of flourishing vineyards (Embiez is part of the gorgeous French wine region of Provence), rugged bluffs, and the endless blues of the Mediterranean. The highest point of the island, a nearly 200-foot-tall overlook crowned by a marine tower, provides panoramic vistas of the island and the Riviera coastline beyond. 

Afterwards, head into the Saint Pierre de Embiez harbor to peruse some of the unique boutiques. A curated selection of boho-chic beachwear, jewelry, and gifts are sold at Trésor Bohême and Les Fées Mer, right along the harbor. For island essentials, like breezy dresses and sun hats, stop by L'Arbousier. You can also sip some of the wines produced on the island at Domaine des Iles Embiez wine shop, such as a rosé, a Cabernet-Merlot blend, and a light white wine.

To fully immerse yourself in Embiez's laidback ethos, book a few nights on the island. In the heart of Port Saint Pierre des Embiez is the four-star Les Helios Hotel and Spa, a sprawling pink-hued building capped with a terracotta roof. The hotel has 60 rooms designed in an airy palette of whites and blues that boast floor-to-ceiling windows framing views of the sea. The top accommodation is the spacious one-bedroom Paul Ricard Suite with a large terrace and living room. The resort promotes well-being with a pampering spa, an indoor swimming pool, and a fitness center. Also associated with the Helios Hotel are the premier suites, a set of suites housed in a historic stone building reimagined with contemporary interiors. The hotel is open annually from April through September. For guests who want more space or independence, Embiez also has a range of accommodations, from one to three-bedroom apartments to the Rosemary Farmhouse with six bedrooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and lush gardens.

Fresh seafood is on the menu in the restaurants of Embiez. For easy takeaway items to fuel hikes or beach picnics, pick up delicious pastries and sandwiches at Pains et Saveurs near the harbor. At Salins Beach, you can visit the food truck, ingeniously converted from an American airstream truck that serves up casual beach fare like burgers and sandwiches. Also near the beach is the Cabana Sucre for ice cream scoops. For a breezy lunch or a sophisticated dinner, try Sarti, the main restaurant of Embiez, with its flavorful menu of Provencal specialities. Here, just-caught fish are often delivered daily from local fishermen and grilled on-site.