Hidden In Northern Michigan Is A Magical River With One Of The Midwest's Best Kayaking Trails

The Great Lakes State's nickname goes beyond its connection to Lakes Huron, Erie, and Michigan. It simply has a knack for enchanting bodies of water. Northern Michigan's rivers aren't slouches either, with gems like the Au Sable cutting across the mitten-shaped state's fingers and complementing its most beautiful lakes and their sandy beaches. Pronounced "ah-sah-bull", the magical waterway stretches for more than 120 miles, connecting Lake Huron to Grayling to create one of the Midwest's best kayaking trails. It's also part of a larger regional aquatic ecosystem, passing within 10 miles of Higgins Lake, one of the state's most gorgeous inland lakes with its miles of scenic shoreline.

The bucolic waterway has led several lives. It long served as a transportation artery, helping fuel some of lower Michigan's commerce. Trappers and traders used the Au Sable for transporting their wares between Lakes Michigan and Huron. Later, logs were sent to sawmills and shipyards waiting downstream. That period was followed by the creation of hydroelectric dams along its length. But while the Au Sable (and many of Michigan's other rivers) powers modern life, it also offers an escape from it.

The river now serves as a veritable highlight reel of nature's finest. The Au Sable's banks rise and fall, at times feeling expansive and at others imposing. Hikers who pass along its undulating curves get just as much of a reward as the paddlers on its waters. This is doubly true during the fall, when the changing foliage overloads your optical nerves. To get the full effect, though, you need a close-up encounter with the water itself. While it's not an official route, the Au Sable was named the winner of the 2015 Michigan DNR's "Michigan's Top Water Trails Contest," and we couldn't agree more.

Exploring the Au Sable on the water

As the Au Sable meanders, it offers scenes straight out of a Disney movie. Along the way, you'll pass through wetland and upland habitats. Ditch the urge to have a productive outing. It's a rare Eden that deserves to be enjoyed on its own terms. Of course, if you must get something done, hit the waters in a kayak or canoe.

The Au Sable's calm, crystal-like surface offers the perfect venue for a paddling experience. Its current moves at a gentle 3 to 5 miles per hour. The route, end-to-end, includes bridges, campgrounds, and dams, with several landings along the way. If you don't have a kayak or canoe of your own, there are plenty of rental options in the town of Grayling. The river passes by a variety of fauna and trees; a birch here, some pine there. Ducks scoot across the surface of the water while wildlife peeks across the river's banks. An excursion can last from a few hours to an entire day (or longer). And the river's magic continues below the surface if you're an angler.

The Au Sable offers one of the premier cold-water fishing spots in the state. Come armed with a fly fishing reel and try to snag some brown trout. Be sure to bring your artificial lures — no natural bait, with the exception of flies in certain parts of the river. There's also a 9-mile stretch of water called the Holy Waters starting around Burton's Landing, where only catch-and-release fly fishing is allowed. However you approach fishing here, take a moment to kick back and enjoy the scenery. Whether or not a fish bites shouldn't matter. Still, if you're truly dedicated to snagging a trout, be it brown or rainbow, plan your visit for spring.

Visiting the Au Sable River

No matter where you live, you'll need to drive to the Au Sable. You're best off starting your trip at Grayling, Michigan's "most colorful river town." Those coming in from further afield should book a flight to Cherry Capital Airport, which hosts arrivals from Chicago, Detroit, and even as far away as Florida. The nearest major travel hub, Bishop International Airport, is an arduous 140 miles away in Flint.

Your accommodations along the river will fall into one of two categories: rugged outdoor adventure or complete comfort. For the latter, stop by the Au Sable Riverview Resort. Its offerings run the gamut from extravagant lodges with riverside views costing $500 a night to rustic cabins for as little as $80 a night. If you don't need a roof over your head, the river features several campgrounds along the way. The AuSable River State Forest Campground and Canoe Camp (more commonly referred to as the Au Sable Canoe Campground) sits 7 miles east of Grayling, with riverfront locations that make it easy to pull up your craft and spend the night.

If you're looking to connect your trip to a bit of sporting fun, book a visit in July during the annual Au Sable River Canoe Marathon. Yes, that's right; people actually race the entire 120-mile length of the river non-stop. It's a demanding event that's either difficult to watch or inspirational, depending on how you look at it. The event coincides with the best weather conditions of the entire year, far removed from Michigan's harsh winters.

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