West Virginia's Scenic Byway Is A Secret Route Through Hidden Hollows And Hemlock Groves

Many travelers are familiar with the most famous scenic routes in the eastern United States. Think North Carolina's Blue Ridge Parkway, nicknamed "America's favorite drive," especially popular in the fall, or Virginia's Skyline Drive, a designated National Scenic Byway that cuts through Shenandoah National Park. But there are lesser-known roads to explore, the kind you're likely to have all to yourself — like West Virginia's Polemic Run, a secret route through hidden hollows and hemlock groves in southern Braxton County.

It'd be easy to blow right past the road's entry, off the US-19 expressway just north of Birch River, WV. But the detour is well worth it. Look for the signs for County Road 19/3, the official name for Polemic Run Road. From the highway, it branches off into the woods, leading to the summit of Barnett Hill (about 1.5 miles). As you pass the turnoff for Crooked Road on the left, the scenic route becomes County Road 38. You'll drive through a quiet hemlock forest for nearly four miles, heading back downhill until you reach the picturesque Little Birch River. Cross the bridge and continue along County Road 28, which runs parallel to the stream. In about three miles, you'll connect once more to the US-19 expressway. 

There might not be any exciting attractions along the drive, but that's part of what makes Polemic Run Road special: shaded and hilly, it's a peaceful escape from the busy highway. In a recent article for the web version of West Virginia Explorer Magazine, the publication's founder, David Sibray, recommended the off-the-beaten-path journey. "The one-lane road mounts steeply up Barnett Hill, as it has for more than 100 years," he wrote, "then descends the tumbling run past cemeteries and old churches and through dark groves of hemlock."

Sibray noted that it's best to navigate the road in a car that can handle somewhat rugged back roads. He also suggested that Polemic Run would be a "welcome diversion" for those traveling between Sutton and Summersville, West Virginia, which are both interesting destinations in their own right. The two towns are about 50 minutes apart by car, and Birch Lake and the entry to the scenic byway are located roughly midway between the two.

In Sutton, a charming town with delicious food and natural beauty, check into the Elk River Hotel & Cafe by GlampOut Resorts (rooms from $99 per night). Located right on Main Street, the hotel offers unique lodging in riverfront Glamping Domes ideal for stargazing. Its cozy café and restaurant, serving freshly caught rainbow trout as well as burgers, pasta, cocktails, and wine, is open to the public on Wednesday through Saturday from 4 to 9 p.m. Summersville is a great jumping-off point for exploring West Virginia's underrated lake state park, Summersville Lake, a magnet for snorkelers. Stay at La Quinta Inn & Suites Summersville/New River National Park ($100 per night) and go for Italian comfort food at Alfredo's of Summersville (open 10:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. most days).

Birch River, the closest spot on the map to Polemic Run Road's entry, is about a five-hour drive from Washington, D.C., or a 4.5-hour drive from Charlotte and its international airport. Learn more about exploring the Potomac Highlands, West Virginia's mountain region filled with charming towns and scenic highways.