Washington's Serene Island Town Has Pacific Northwest Charm And An Idyllic Resort

There are hundreds of islands in the Salish Sea off the coast of Washington State. Of these, 84 are protected National Wildlife Refuges, and only a few — namely the scenic islands of Lopez, Orcas, and San Juan — are served by ferries. San Juan Island is where you'll find the serene town of Roche Harbor, one of the most picturesque destinations in the archipelago, with a historic resort and an open-air sculpture park with leafy trails to explore. 

The seaside village, located at the island's northern tip and framed by lush Pacific Northwest scenery, faces a bustling marina and a dazzling seascape where you can spot orca whales in summer. Originally a company town built around a lime quarry, Roche Harbor is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Many of its notable buildings were constructed during the quarry's late-19th-century heyday, including the Hotel de Haro, a schoolhouse, a Methodist chapel, and a mausoleum. The Great Depression impacted the limestone industry, ultimately leading to the closure of the island's quarry in 1956. But old-fashioned charm remains in the town's narrow streets and clapboard houses draped with vines and hollyhock.

Today, you can spot masonry lime furnaces and other remnants of the company town on a stroll around the Roche Harbor National Register Historic District. Some historic buildings, including a collection of cottages that once housed quarry workers and the Hotel de Haro — built in 1886, the oldest hotel operating in the state of Washington — are now part of the elegant Roche Harbor Resort.

Rooms with shared baths in the original hotel start at $148 per night, while more spacious and modern lodgings at the resort, like the luxurious Maple Cottage, with four bedrooms and multiple fireplaces, go for $1,200 per night (and upwards). An impressive 85% of the resort's accommodations offer sea views. In the morning, grab a cappuccino at Beechtree Espresso, or have a leisurely breakfast at Lime Kiln Café, set on a wharf over the water.

Highlights around the resort include gorgeous flower gardens and a waterfront swimming pool (open seasonally). Sea kayaking and whale watching excursions can be easily arranged, and you can explore miles of hiking trails without ever getting in the car: the trail network is easily accessible on foot from the resort. For a one-of-a-kind outdoor experience on San Juan Island, try paddling through glowing waters on a bioluminescent kayaking tour.

Whether you're a guest of the resort or not, it's essential to go for a walk through the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park. Connected to the resort, but open to the public, it features over 150 unique pieces by artists from around the world. The 20-acre park, set around the central Frog Pond, is also a wonderful place to enjoy the wilderness of the Pacific Northwest. Open every day from dawn to dusk, the sculpture park is free to enter, though donations are encouraged.

To get to Roche Harbor, you'll catch a ferry from the Anacortes Ferry Terminal (about 1.5 hours by car from Seattle or Vancouver, British Columbia) to the Friday Harbor Ferry Terminal on San Juan Island. Reservations are not required for walk-on passengers (fares $17.50 per person), but if you're planning to load your car on the ferry (fares from $40.95 for vehicle and driver), you must reserve ahead of time. The one-way trip takes between one and two hours, depending on the route and the vessel.

Once in Friday Harbor, you could take time to wander around the walkable coastal town, a charming retreat with shops, museums, and restaurants. Or you could continue directly to Roche Harbor, about a 20-minute drive. Shuttle and taxi services are available for travelers who didn't bring a car on the ferry.