Georgia's Once-Thriving Soviet Spa Resort And Sanatorium Has Transformed Into A Modern 4-Star Hotel

In the western Imereti region of Georgia, one of Europe's most beautiful mountainous countries, lies the formerly thriving town of Tskaltubo, nestled between the imposing Caucasus Mountains and the Rioni River. A striking place of rolling hills, verdant forests, tranquil lakes, and karst caves, Tskaltubo became known for its thermal waters and pleasant climate. You'll find over 2,000 mineral-heavy hot springs here, which used to draw hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the former Soviet Union each year. However, when the USSR collapsed in December 1991, the town emptied out. It was left abandoned, save for a population of around 10,000 displaced Abkhazians (from the breakaway region in the northwest), who found refuge in the town's abandoned structures during the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict and remained there for 30 years.

In the past, the town welcomed the Soviet elite; now, its guests are mainly artists and urban explorers fascinated by the derelict facilities, swathed in overgrown vegetation and holding memories from a bygone era. Broken chandeliers hang from bare ceilings, and rooms have been stripped of even their floorboards. Renegade trees now tower over the neoclassical columns and austere concrete structures typical of this period of architecture. But one place in particular, the Soviet Military Sanatorium, has been given a new lease on life. In 2011, after undergoing some much-needed refurbishments, it opened up as a grand four-star hotel: Legends Tskaltubo Spa Resort.

This resort covers roughly 40 acres of land, containing lush gardens, flowering magnolia trees, and ornate fountains. And while there's now plenty of other accommodation, Legends Tskaltubo is the only Soviet-era sanatorium that has been restored and reopened. Boasting 135 rooms, modern amenities, and various wellness treatments, this resort offers a luxurious stay in a location that appears frozen in time.

Tskaltubo, developed as a spa town starting in 1925, hosted about 22 sanatoriums at its height. These weren't just simple health centers — a Soviet sanatorium was a large-scale space that held restaurants, lodgings, entertainment and medical facilities, spas, and more. Connected to Moscow by a daily train, Tskaltubo soon became a popular wellness playground. Here, you'd find average citizens hobnobbing with Communist Party elite, along with other members of the Soviet Union's Ministry of Defense. This was also a regular haunt of Joseph Stalin himself, who was born in Georgia.

In the Soviet era, citizens received two weeks of state-mandated vacation. During this time, they were expected to focus on rest and recovery so that they could be more productive upon returning to work. These vacationers descended upon this tiny town, no bigger than 8.5 square miles, in droves. They rejuvenated in its natural springs, believed to be rich in the healing mineral radon, and took in the surrounding beauty. Tskaltubo was also chock-full of lavish theaters, restaurants, cinemas, and opulent ballrooms, where visitors could partake in nighttime merriment after a day at the spas.

While the number of visitors today doesn't come close to pre-'90s figures, Tskaltubo is certainly having a moment — various hotels and restaurants have popped up, and many of the old buildings are being restored. This is due to an ambitious revitalization project that was laid out in a comprehensive investment plan, fittingly titled "New Life of Tskaltubo." Unveiled by the Ministry of Economy and Sustainable Development in 2022, it envisions the city as an international center for recreational retreats and medicinal tourism. But whether it can fully return to its spa-resort glory days remains to be seen.

Legends Tskaltubo is your best bet for a comfortable and affordable wellness getaway. It currently offers six types of rooms, including the Single Standard Room and the Twin or Double Suite with Balcony. Every stay comes with in-room Wi-Fi, air conditioning, a flat-screen TV, free parking, and a private bathroom stocked with basic toiletries. The property also features gardens, parkland paths for hiking or leisurely bike rides, and an indoor games room. The seasonal outdoor pool is a refreshing treat on hot summer days.

Nightly rates start at $87 for the bed-and-breakfast option or $92 for full-board (three meals per day). Breakfast is buffet-style, while European fare is served for lunch and dinner. You can also upgrade to the Full Sanatorium package (seven-night minimum), which includes access to the spa and three daily treatments: a 10-minute massage, a 20-minute hot-water bath, and physiotherapy. Additional treatments, such as facial masks, Thai herbal massages, and therapeutic mud procedures, are available at an extra cost. Reserve your stay on Legends Tskaltubo's website or on third-party sites like Booking.com.

The closest major hub is Kutaisi, a mountain city and foodie's dream located on the banks of the Rioni River. This historic former capital, with its stunning monasteries and fortresses, is worth a visit as well. The nearest airport, Kutaisi International Airport (KUT) is also located here, although there are currently no direct flights from the U.S. Legends Tskaltubo is around a 20-minute drive northwest from Kutaisi and a three-hour drive from Tbilisi, Georgia's underrated capital. For an additional fee, the resort provides transfers for guests from the airports or train stations of Kutaisi, Tbilisi, and Batumi (around three hours away).