South Philly's 'Foodie Playground' Is A Walkable Neighborhood With Delectable Eats And Quirky Shops

When you visit Philadelphia for the first time, you have to try the cheesesteak. It's basically a rule. Vegetarians are exempt, and if you have a dietary restriction, locals may give you a pass. But if you are physically capable of eating this gluttonous torpedo roll full of grilled ribeye, finely chopped onions, and perfectly melted cheese, true Philadelphians will badger you to try one — and when you accept the invitation, they'll likely send you to East Passyunk, the most famous neighborhood in South Philadelphia. In a city packed with great restaurants, East Passyunk is famed for its food options; the tourism site Visit Philadelphia calls it a "foodie playground," and it's totally not wrong.

Passyunk Square is also the setting for the two most famous cheesesteak restaurants, Geno's Steaks and Pat's King of Steaks, which face each other across the intersection. This is the geographic heart of Passyunk, a crossroads busy with lifelong residents and first-time tourists. Sure, you can find plenty of other delis and sandwich shops that serve this artery-clogging delicacy, but Passyunk Square is the ideal place to start your journey through South Philly.

Our advice: Don't drive, or at least park your car once and walk from there. These streets are flat, historic, and laid out in a grid, so they're easy to navigate on foot. These blocks are packed with shops and eateries, and the streets are frenetic with activity. Small wonder this city takes the crown for being America's most walkable.

A few blocks north of Passyunk Square is another iconic destination, the South 9th Street Italian Market. The busy stalls and fresh produce may remind you of a farmer's market, except that this place is open nearly every day (usually closed Mondays). This is the oldest open-air market in continuous operation in the U.S., and its teeming arcades can feel like time-travel. South Philly is one of Philadelphia's most historic neighborhoods, a blend of old-school Italian flavors and lively urban energy, and nowhere is that more evident than at this market. These vendors sell traditional favorites like cured meats, artisanal cheeses, and baked goods, along with many global newcomers. In keeping with Passyunk's foot-friendly atmosphere, the market's website has a handy walking map.

Name a meal or mood, and you will probably find it in or around East Passyunk. Many of these spots have won major awards, including El Chingon, Gabriella's Vietnam, and River Twice. The Cambodian restaurant Mawn has a heartwarming origin story, and its owner, Phila Lorn, won a James Beard Award in the Emerging Chef category. These streets are well marinated in culinary excellence, and you could spend days just sampling the best-reviewed eateries, like diner-wine-bar Superette, fine-dining-whiskey-bar Stateside, and experimental-American-plus-brunch-place Ember & Ash. This area is also great for retail: There's the kid-centric Tildie's Toy Box, machine-repair Philly Typewriter, and clothier August Moon Boutique, among countless other small and specialty shops.

Overwhelmed? Totally normal. A great time to sample Passyunk is during the neighborhood's annual Restaurant Week, which takes place at the end of February. This curated experience helps foodies enjoy some of the best local cuisine at affordable prices. And despite the name, it actually lasts two weeks.

Urban Philadelphia is remarkably easy to get around without a car, including getting to Passyunk. Fly into Philadelphia International Airport, then take the SEPTA Airport Line — a special express train — right into Center City, which should take about a half-hour. Many visitors like to stay around City Hall or Old City; the latter is known as "America's Most Historic Square Mile" and is a favorite for its cobbled streets, leafy parks, and seasonal flavors. If you find a hotel here, you can hop the B1 train at Philadelphia's famous City Hall and get to the Ellsworth-Federal subway station in 10 minutes, which is a reasonable stroll from Passyunk Square. 

The city has lots of roaming taxis you can hail from the curb, and major ride-share apps are popular here as well. If walking feels a little slow, East Passyunk is a decent area for cycling, and you can easily borrow a bike through the city's Indego bike-share program. Just be aware that Philadelphia has a limited network of bike lanes, so you'll have to contend with traffic.

Although East Passyunk is famous for its small businesses, this is largely residential and lacks decent hotels. If you want to stay around Passyunk Square, your best bet is to find a rentable residence on Airbnb or Vrbo. Per usual, prices will vary considerably for different types of accommodations.