Nestled Between Yosemite And Death Valley Is California's Locale With Small-Town Charm
California is known for its epic national parks like Yosemite, vibrant cities like San Francisco, and stunning coastal views along Big Sur and the Pacific Coast Highway. But there are plenty of hidden gems to discover off the beaten path. Not far from Death Valley and its surreal Mars-like landscapes, you'll find the small town of Independence, the seat of Inyo County. Founded during the area's mining heyday in the mid-1800s, it's now a great destination for history and outdoor lovers.
Independence is located between Yosemite and Death Valley National Parks. It serves as a gateway to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks, as well as the John Muir Wilderness Area. If you're taking an underrated road trip on U.S. Route 395, be sure to plan a stop at Independence. Mammoth Yosemite Airport is the closest major airport to Independence — it's about a 1.5-hour drive away. Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) has far more flight connections, and is a 3.5-hour drive from Independence. You'll need your own vehicle to explore around Independence — an SUV with 4WD is recommended for driving on dirt roads, but you can likely manage (slowly) with a normal car.
Check into the Winnedumah Hotel, a historic hotel that dates back to 1925. There are 24 rooms which have been restored to provide modern-day comforts, but still offer antique furnishings.
Discover the Western small-town charm of Independence
Independence feels like taking a step back in time — it has some of the best historic buildings in Inyo County. One spot you can't miss is Inyo County Courthouse. It was built in the 1920s and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The best place to learn about local history is at the Eastern California Museum, which has an impressive display of Native American baskets among other exhibits. Stop by the Mary Austin House — the author wrote a number of works about the American Southwest, and her former home in Independence is a California Historical Landmark. Just outside of town, you'll find Manzanar National Historic Site, home to a former Japanese internment camp during World War II. See the sobering exhibits and visit two reconstructed barracks.
There are only a few options for dining in Independence — it is a rural small town, after all. Still Life Cafe is a lovely French bistro serving pasta, burgers, and sandwiches along with French specials. Cowboy Coffee serves artisan coffee from a rustic trailer in town, and there is at least one regular taco truck — the Lemon Food Truck is family-owned with delicious homemade salsa.
Outdoor activities and adventures around Independence
The area around Independence is full of things to do for outdoor enthusiasts — hiking, camping, and fishing are all popular here. Visit the Mary DeDecker Native Plant Garden, named after the botanist Mary DeDecker, and stroll the pretty pathways. You can admire mountain views of the Eastern Sierra Nevadas from the easy Dehy Park Trail — spring is a great time to visit to see the wildflowers in bloom. There are a number of nearby trails into the Eastern Sierra for hikers. Try the challenging 12-mile Kearsarge Pass Trail to Kearsarge Lakes, which offers stunning views of the wilderness. If you don't want to hike all that way, follow the trail 2 miles to Gilbert Lake — it's an elevation gain of 1,200 feet, but much shorter than the full route.
If you're visiting between May and November, drive the Onion Valley Scenic Road. This 13-mile stretch of road winds up into the mountains, with superb views along the way — it's closed in winter due to snow. Just a few miles from Independence you'll find Mt. Whitney Fish Hatchery, with scenic and peaceful grounds to explore and exhibits on wildlife. If you'd rather cast a line yourself, nearby creeks have good trout fishing; the lakes and channels around Owens River have bass (both smallmouth and largemouth) along with catfish and bluegills. Carry on your adventure by taking the scenic route to Yosemite on Tioga Road.