Between Minneapolis And Wisconsin Dells Is An Artsy, Under-The-Radar City With Shops And Beauty

When thinking of the Mississippi River, it's natural to conjure up images of southern cities, like Memphis, New Orleans, or spots like Pass-a-Loutre, a coastal boat-in wilderness with Bayou magic down in Louisiana. While it's fairly common knowledge that this majestic waterway, known as "America's River," starts in Minnesota, it's easy to overlook the northern Midwest section, like the 230-mile stretch that makes up the border of Wisconsin. For much of it, Minnesota sits across the river, and the two even share Interstate State Park, the starting point for a scenic trail that winds for a thousand miles. It's a beautiful area of sweeping bluffs, rolling forests, wetlands, and charming riverside communities like Alma, Wisconsin. 

Tucked between Minneapolis (1 hour and 40 minutes) and Wisconsin Dells (about 2 hours), Alma is a tiny town of just over 700 residents, but it punches way above its weight when it comes to cultural experiences, local boutique shops, and river beauty. Originally settled by Swiss immigrants and used as a logging outpost for steamships chugging up the Mississippi, Alma became a village in 1868 and is loaded with history, with much of the downtown district on the National Register of Historic Places. 

A standout characteristic of the town is its shape. It was carved into a bluff along the river and stretches for many miles, but most of it is only two streets wide. Many of the perpendicular avenues that connect Main and Second Streets were carved as stairs, with the intention of modifying them into roads as the town developed, but the steps remain intact and are a defining feature of the town today. Unique, artistic, and under-the-radar, Alma is a worthy stop on any laid-back northern Midwest itinerary.

For being a town with a tiny population, Alma has a large variety of quaint and historic accommodation options — there are also various camping spots available if visiting in the summer. Stay downtown in the Burlington Hotel, a building overlooking the river that was originally built in 1891 for Burlington Northern Railroad workers. Another stunning option is the Hotel de Ville Grand, with elegant suites, a fine dining restaurant, and a wraparound porch.

Wherever you stay, strolling downtown and popping into the many quaint shops is a must. A few noteworthy stops are the Gypsy Wagon Curiosity Shop, which is bursting at the seams with eclectic antiques, while Water Lily Gifts has an elevated selection of gift shop staples. The Weaving Studio has a unique collection of art for your home. For even more artwork, check out The Commercial and Stump Town Gallery, which have a wide selection of pieces in many mediums by local artists.

During the last weekend in July, in homage to the early settlers of Alma, the town hosts an annual festival called Swiss Heritage Days. The event is head-to-toe Swiss themed, with live music (lots of polka), yodeling, beer gardens, baked pretzels, Swiss-inspired works by local artists for sale, and a classic Swiss Rock Toss (or Steinstossen), where men, women, and children see how far they can heave a 20-pound rock. Then, on the Sunday of Labor Day weekend, is the Alma Music and Art Festival alongside the river. It's a wonderful end to the summer season, enjoying live music, grabbing a bite to eat from one of the food trucks, and wandering past booths with vendors selling handmade art, prints, purses, candles, and more.

On hot summer days, cool off in the Mississippi by taking a dip at Alma Beach. It's a sandy stretch in town and part of a recreation area that's perfect for a sunny afternoon, with a softball field, tennis, pickleball, and basketball courts. Right next door is the Alma Marina, where you can rent a pontoon to spend a day with family and friends cruising the gently flowing waters of the northern Mississippi, admiring the dramatic landscape, and throwing an anchor down at nearby Lake Pepin.

A popular place to take in the gorgeous countryside is Buena Vista Park. As mentioned, the town was carved into the riverside bluffs, so just behind Alma are dramatic hills and this beautiful park with expansive views above the village. Drive up or hike the Buena Vista Trail; either way, bring a picnic blanket and some snacks for an afternoon soaking in Mississippi River scenes.

To get even closer to the water, pitch a tent at one of the twelve sites at Rieck's Lake Park, at the north end of town. It's got a playground, pavilion, grills, and an observation deck for viewing wildlife. South of Alma is Great River Harbor Campground and Marina, a premium spot for a relaxing outdoor experience and fun on the water. Camp or stay in one of its cabins, spend the day cruising the Mississippi in one of its houseboats for rent, and then relax at the bar and grill during the evening. To go deeper into nature, check out the 322-acre Merrick State Park. Just 15 minutes south of Alma, it also has camping, hiking, and canoeing opportunities on calm river backwaters.