Houston's Artsy Neighborhood To Visit Blends Rich History With Unique Restaurants And Cultural Attractions
When visiting Houston, you could follow the crowds to yet another tourist trap like the Beer Can House (one of Houston's five most wildly overhyped tourist attractions), or you could deviate from the well-worn visitor trails and explore one of the city's most historic and artistic neighborhoods. The Third Ward (known locally as "the Tre") is located about 3 miles from the city center and is one of Houston's oldest areas, with a rich African American history.
What originally began as a sanctuary for freed slaves has become a treasured neighborhood preserving Houston's African American past and enlivening its present through cultural sights, creative projects, arts, and community initiatives. The history here can be damning of America's dark past with slavery, but it also exemplifies the resiliency, creativity, and entrepreneurial nature of Houston's black population. Segregated from white neighborhoods for almost 100 years, the Third Ward's residents turned it into a thriving community where black-owned businesses prospered alongside a burgeoning music and art culture.
Certain areas in the Third Ward showcase this best, like the Project Row Houses (PRH). This artist-founded initiative started around 30 years ago, giving historically marginalized artists a platform for showcasing their work in dedicated houses or public spaces along Holman Street. You can visit the art installations for free any day of the week. PRH also hosts free music lessons and art workshops on certain days, along with ticketed artist talks, guided bus tours, and art festivals.
Must-visit restaurants in Houston's Third Ward
The Third Ward has two prominent universities: Texas Southern and the University of Houston. These lend the neighborhood a lively and diverse nature that pairs well with its deep-rooted African American culture. Following your stomach is a great way to immerse yourself in this tight-knit community while also treating yourself to incredible food. Frenchy's Chicken is a local institution, beloved by one of the neighborhood's most famous former residents, Beyoncé. The Southern Louisiana-inspired chicken shop has been satiating fried chicken cravings since 1969. Chicken tender combos and 16-piece family meals pair well with Frenchy's special Gris Gris sauce.
Now, you could get your barbecue fix in Houston at Truth or Pappas, two of the five best barbecue restaurants in the downtown area. Or you could venture about 2 miles south of the Third Ward across the Bays Bayou to grab a table at Ray's Real Pit BBQ Shack. The eatery has been crafting hickory-smoked meats and homemade sides and sweets since 1984, when the shack started as a food truck. Now you can pull up a chair and tuck into plates of brisket, baby back ribs, and stuffed sausages. Pair it with spicy rice, slaw, onion rings, and other sides before finishing with peach cobbler or banana pudding.
Sometimes all you need is a good burger and fries. If you get that itch in the Third Ward, Cream Burger can scratch it. The popular burger restaurant on Elgin Street is a no-frills shack with a covered outdoor area and some seating. The family-run joint has been serving its burgers like this for over 60 years, and the general consensus is there's no reason to ever change. The menu is simple — hamburgers, cheeseburgers, chili burgers, hot dogs, and various fries and ice cream flavors — but the food doesn't disappoint.
The Tre's history and culture in communal spaces
Along with the aforementioned PRH, the Third Ward's history is preserved within Emancipation Park. This is one of the primary places in Houston where the history of slavery in Texas is remembered and the freedom of those enslaved is honored. It's also a place for the community to come together and continue its growth. Outdoor facilities, such as an aquatics center with waterslides, a baseball field, tennis courts, and a playground, provide ample spaces for fun and exercise. The park's Cultural Center and Blessing Theater can also be reserved for private events.
The Blaffer Art Museum, part of the University of Houston, also hosts free art exhibitions. These thematic displays often deal with culturally relevant topics, such as environmental destruction, bicultural identities, and land rights. You can also attend various events here, including live music and artist talks. Speaking of music, try to catch a gig at the Eldorado Ballroom. This 1930s venue, which set the stage for jazz and blues greats like Ray Charles, was resurrected by PRH in the early 2000s, and it now puts on multiple performances each month.
You can drive to the Third Ward in about 10 minutes from the center of Houston or catch the Purple Line from the Theatre District to the Elgin Third Ward stop for a 25-minute journey. There isn't much accommodation here — just a Hilton hotel at the University of Houston — so you might be better off staying downtown. If you still have energy for more exploring after visiting the Third Ward, pop over to its neighbor, EaDo, a "revitalized gem," brimming with boutiques, eateries, and galleries.