New Hampshire's Sweet Mountain Hideaway Is An Outdoor Haven With Cool Caverns And Serene Trails

If the town of Rumney, New Hampshire, had only one impressive cliff, rock climbers would probably stop there on a road trip through the state. If this quaint New England town had 10 such cliffs, climbers would go out of their way to visit. But in all, Rumney boasts an astonishing 38 distinct rock walls, and visitors can pick from more than 1,000 established routes, making this one of the most beloved climbing destinations in New England. The faces are composed mostly of the stone known as schist, and their surfaces are attractively grainy and textured. Athletes of all skill levels can warm up on a wide range of boulders, and expert climbers can attempt Jaws II, a punishing overhang that's considered one of the toughest climbs east of the Rocky Mountains.

All this climbable stone has bestowed an outsized reputation on Rumney, a community of around 1,400 people on the edge of White Mountain National Forest. Swarms of climbers come here every summer, and they continue to trickle through during cold winters, thanks to impressive ice-climbing walls. Yet you don't need ropes and harnesses to enjoy this stunning region; there's hiking and camping aplenty for families and low-key outdoorspeople, plus a handful of eateries. For folks who want a geological adventure but aren't thrilled about heights, Polar Caves Park is a kid-friendly system of boulders and caves in the southeast corner of town. If you're already planning to unwind in one of the most romantic mountain regions New England has to offer, Rumney is a great place to start.

Rumney itself is small but spread out; there isn't much of a "downtown," per se, so you'll probably have to drive from one attraction to the next. Instead of hotels and nightlife, most travelers come to Rumney to camp and climb. The location may strike travelers as less of a "town" than a name to plug into a GPS.

Yet the Polar Caves have anchored this place on the map since its founding in 1922. The name comes from its frozen origins during the Ice Age, when mile-high glaciers dumped rocks across New England like so many Lego pieces. These piles of granite boulders left little spaces in between; the Polar Caves are just the right size for visitors to shimmy through. Wooden staircases and boardwalks zigzag over the complex terrain, and all nine caves bear playful names, such as "Devil's Turnpike," "Needle's Eye," and "The Lemon Squeeze." Unlike these 13 spooky caves to visit in the U.S. and Canada in the fall, the Polar Caves are shallow and straightforward. Once you've maneuvered through these labyrinths, head over to the animal park to cavort with miniature fallow deer, or nab yourself a sweatshirt and bottle of maple syrup in the Main Lodge.

A more traditional climb is Stinson Mountain, with its 3.6-mile out-and-back trail. Hikers will ascend a respectable 1,400 feet of elevation through the woodlands above Rumney; like so many paths through the White Mountains, the rugged trail is peppered with rocks and roots, but the view from Stinson's bald summit is worth the effort. Budget about 3 hours for the full circuit, though skilled hikers may finish faster.

The only way to visit Rumney is to drive, as there's no bus stop here and the local railroad tracks have long been removed. If you're flying into New England, Rumney is about a 2-hour drive from Boston Logan International Airport. The White Mountains are a popular stomping ground, especially in the warmer high season, so you should find a lot of fellow travelers on the route.

If you're arriving with a tent, there are several options around Rumney: The Mountain Pines Campground has budget-friendly tent sites; Riverbrook Campground offers rustic and RV sites; and Barn Door Hostel & Campground provides both indoor rooms and outdoor spaces. You're also around 40 miles from Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire's largest lake and a gateway to beaches, cute villages, and the White Mountains foothills. Central New Hampshire is well-suited for car-campers who don't mind sleeping on the ground.

The closest major town to Rumney is Plymouth, a commercial hub of about 5,000 residents located about 15 minutes down the road by car. Here you'll find a long row of restaurants, a handful of inns, and the campus of Plymouth State University, where more than 3,100 undergraduates are enrolled. Plymouth is a great resource for lodging and services, so you don't have to rough it through your whole Rumney sojourn, and prices for a room range from under $100 to nearly $300 per night. Whichever outdoor adventure you choose, just be careful: The nearest emergency room is at Dartmouth Hitchcock Medical Center, about an hour away by car.