Rhode Island's Once-Thriving Military Fort Is Now A State Park Haven For Trails, Fishing, And Coastal Views

For such a small state, Rhode Island packs a lot of incredible places you need to visit at least once. The list includes Fort Adams, with military ramparts and deep history cutting a stately figure just south of Newport. Its antithesis, Fort Wetherill, lies just across the water, graffiti-covered and slightly decrepit, with no placards diving into its history as a once-thriving military fort. Yet the fort's roughshod appearance hides a state park that doubles as a haven for trails, fishing, and amazing coastal views.

The former military site on the island of Conanicut has roots in the American Revolution, serving as a defensive battery overlooking Newport's harbor from atop 100-foot granite cliffs. Initially called the Dumpling Rocks Battery, it failed to fulfill its duty, and the British captured Newport and nearby Jamestown during the Revolution. Renovated, it was used as a military installation, retaining the "dumpling" moniker until 1898, when the government blew up its tower and reconfigured the fort's layout under the name Fort Wetherill. Rhode Island acquired the modernized and renamed Fort Wetherill from the federal government in 1972, turning it into a state park. The resulting structure, a labyrinth of concrete and mazes, looks like something built in Minecraft.

"Fort Wetherill is a great place to explore on your own and at your own pace," local Stanley Strycharz wrote in a review on Google. "The old concrete gun emplacements and bunkers are fascinating," he added, lamenting the blight presented in the graffiti and lackluster upkeep. Still, the 61-acre state park packs adventure galore into its relatively compact size. Travelers to the Ocean State can boat, fish, hike, picnic, or just take in the views from Fort Wetherill's overlooks. They can also make a quick jaunt to Newport, New England's coastal getaway with festive charm that's about 15 minutes away by car.

Fort Wetherill State Park's unique location serves up a feast for the eyes, with coastal views encircling visitors. To the West lies Newport Harbor, with its low-lying skyline cutting an elegant figure in the distance, a view made even better at dusk. Narragansett Bay lies to its East, waves crashing against the cliffs. Frequent visitors to the fort take full advantage of its vantage point during the annual America's Cup and Tall Ship events. Some visitors decry Fort Wetherill's dilapidated state, especially its graffiti, claiming it spoils the beautiful surroundings. "The ruins and graffiti are a downer, but the scenery makes up for it in my opinion," one visitor wrote in a review on TripAdvisor.

The site's military history sets a solid foundation for a network of trails, with routes once used by soldiers now hosting travelers with binoculars and a penchant for selfies. The state park's main trail, less than a mile, roams the grounds, passing by the fort as well as the coast, with appendages branching out. This network of trails winds through the remnants of past military installations, featuring old bunkers and graffiti-covered tunnels, though some visitors claim it's hard to navigate. Some paths lead to overlooks from 100-foot cliffs, staring down at the rugged coastline, the ocean creating a curving blue horizon as boats pass into and out of the harbor. 

Head out onto the ocean for some heavy saltwater fishing. There's a wide range of species offshore, but the water off Fort Wetherill State Park delivers. Tautog, scup, bluefish, and black sea bass call the waters home. While less prolific than other spots, fishermen claim the ones that do bite are big. Just beware, fishing from the shore requires negotiating slippery rocks.

State parks must cross a high bar to earn a stand-alone visit. While Forth Wetherill State Park contains some true gems, it doesn't justify being the epicenter of a trip. Instead, here's a travel recommendation: Make Fort Wetherill State Park a scenic detour on a trip to Jamestown, a coastal community packed with parks and award-winning restaurants that's six minutes away by car. Negotiating a flight to Rhode Island inevitably requires landing at a smaller regional airport or taking the 83-mile trip from Boston Logan International Airport (BOS), the closest major transit hub. If you live in the northeast, hop in a car and drive over instead.

Jamestown is full of private accommodations with various levels of comfort. Newport, just across the water, also has a mix of inns and hotels at the ready. There's no wrong time to visit this corner of the Northeast, though its cranky and cold winter makes shoulder season seem more appealing.