Just Outside Santa Fe Is A New Mexico Forest With Canyons And Hot Springs
Santa Fe, New Mexico, is the American West's artsy, cultural paradise, but just northwest of its iconic pueblo buildings, near the real-life "Atomic City" of Los Alamos, is the spectacular nature of the Santa Fe National Forest. Its 1.6 million protected acres contain far more than just pristine forest, though the trees themselves — mostly coniferous species like pinyon, juniper, Ponderosa pine, spruce, fir, and aspen — are abundant as well as fragrant. If you've never smelled the vanilla-butterscotch aroma emanating from the bark of a Ponderosa pine, you're in for a treat.
Besides trees, the Santa Fe National Forest also encompasses towering mountains like the 13,103-foot Truchas Peak, around 20 different lakes, hundreds of miles of streams, three Wild and Scenic rivers, and the vastly different ecosystems of four wilderness areas. The wildlife that calls these lands home ranges from quietly grazing deer and Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep to ambling black bears and roaming elk herds.
Humans are also welcome, whether that's just for the day or for a restorative overnight stay in one of a handful of national forest campgrounds. Some folks may come to these parts simply for quiet contemplation, but the more actively inclined can enjoy horseback riding, biking, cross-country skiing, and hiking on the park's large network of trails, fishing for various species of trout in the many streams and lakes, and birdwatching. Visitors will also find lesser-known treasures of the Santa Fe National Forest, including river canyons and several hidden hot springs, presenting even more opportunities for outdoor recreation.
Exploring the Chama River Canyon Wilderness
One of the most striking spots in the Santa Fe National Forest is the Chama River Canyon Wilderness. The Chama River winds through a sandstone canyon before eventually flowing into the Rio Grande in this magical section of the national forest. Sherbet-colored canyon cliffs rise 1,500 feet above the water at certain points, dotted here and there with piñon and sagebrush and contrasting sharply with the bright blue New Mexico sky. Several Redditors on the r/NewMexico thread raved about the scenery in this canyon, with one saying, "Love the Chama River Wilderness. Some of the most beautiful scenery in the state, if not the country. Could easily be a national park..." If the views remind you of a Georgia O'Keefe painting, that's not a coincidence. The famous painter owned a home along the Chama River, and its canyon walls were the subject of her work, "Red and Yellow Cliffs".
The beauty of the Chama River Canyon Wilderness makes for a superb backdrop for outdoor activities. Coasting down the calm river on a raft, canoe, or kayak is the best way to experience the canyon's inner reaches, where you can gaze up at the colorful cliffs and possibly spot a peregrine nest. This stretch of river has only small, Class II rapids, making it ideal for novice river runners or for those on a relaxing outing with family or friends. Anglers should bring their equipment along, as the river also offers great trout fishing. For those who'd rather explore the area on foot, the only established hiking trail in the Chama River Canyon Wilderness is the rugged Ojitos Trail, a portion of the Continental Divide Trail.
Hot springs in the Santa Fe National Forest
Aside from stunning canyons, the Santa Fe National Forest also hides several hot springs. Two of these are located south of the Chama River Canyon Wilderness, around an hour's drive west of Los Alamos. The more northerly option is the San Antonio Hot Springs, and according to one AllTrails reviewer, it's "one of the coolest places in New Mexico... if you're looking for an incredibly beautiful and relaxing spot to enjoy nature ..." It's recommended that visitors use a 4-wheel drive vehicle to reach the trailhead. After parking, it's just a short trek to the hot springs area, where you can soak in four different pools tucked into the side of a mountain. It's important to note that this is a popular nude bathing area, although not everyone will forgo a swimsuit.
Another oasis a bit farther south is Jemez Hot Springs, set among red rocks just outside of Albuquerque. This resort town has several different hot springs options, from brick and mortar soaks to all natural springs. Spence Hot Spring and McCauley Warm Springs are two of the areas primitive springs, tucked just outside of town. The set up is similar to San Antonio Hot Springs, where you hike in and enjoy. A step up from these primitive springs is the Jemez Springs Bathhouse right in town, which offers simple bathtub soaks along with massages. For the most civilized experience, visit the official Jemez Hot Springs, where you'll find four therapeutic mineral pools that can accommodate up to 50 people (bathing suits are required here).