California's Oldest Continuously-Operating Boutique Hotel That Housed Famous Americans Is Still Open Today
Within the lush green foothills of the Sierra Nevada, in the frontier town of Grass Valley, lies a historic northern California gem: the Holbrooke Hotel. Retaining its Old West flavor but adapted for the modern-day traveler, the Holbrooke is both a nostalgic trip into the area's rough-and-tumble past and an elegant, timeless spot for a serene getaway.
The current structure dates back to 1862, making it California's oldest continuously-operating boutique hotel, and it was registered as a California Historical Landmark in 1977. The bar around which it was built, the Golden Gate Saloon, holds the same distinction for saloons in the Mother Lode region (a gold-rich, 150-mile stretch of Sierra Nevada land). Throughout its history, the Holbrooke has housed several famous Americans: Literary legends Bret Harte and Mark Twain likely penned new work over a glass of whiskey or two at the saloon. Renowned boxing champions Bob Fitzsimmons and James J. Corbett ("Gentleman Jim") took leave of the ring for the comfort of a stay here. And former U.S. presidents Ulysses S. Grant, James A. Garfield, Grover Cleveland, and Benjamin Harrison also rested their heads in these stately quarters.
There are 28 rooms of various categories on offer in the Purcell Carriage House, just steps from the main building, and in the Holbrooke itself, including the cozy Purcell Double Full, the stylish Holbrooke Queen, and the spacious Purcell King. You'll find on-site dining at the Golden Gate Saloon, which serves up contemporary, California-based cuisine, along with libations galore at the Iron Door cellar bar, an intimate cocktail lounge set in what was once a brothel and a speakeasy during Prohibition. For fans of the occult, there's another reason you should consider booking a room: The Holbrooke is said to be one of the best haunted hotels across America to stay at.
The (haunted) history of the Holbrooke Hotel
In 1852, early settlers Stephen and Clara Smith built the Golden Gate Saloon (and the Exchange Hotel shortly after), capitalizing on the recent influx of prospectors. Gold was discovered here two years prior, and Grass Valley transformed from a cattle-grazing site into a bustling mining town. The saloon and hotel quickly became popular social hubs for this young community, where miners, merchants, and madames alike could celebrate their newfound fortunes or drown their sorrows. Beyond the aforementioned poets, prizefighters, and presidents, the Holbrooke also played host to adult entertainers, famed courtesans such as Lola Montez, and even notorious, stagecoach-robbing outlaws like Black Bart.
Unfortunately, tragic blazes in 1855 and 1862 destroyed the original building — but it was rebuilt with more resilient fire-proofing. The hotel changed ownership (and its name) in 1879, when it was bought by Daniel and Ellen Holbrooke, but it continued to retain its social significance over the decades. After a rigorous, 2-year process to restore the Holbrooke's Gold Rush-era character, it reopened in January of 2021 and has welcomed guests ever since.
Although you won't find Grass Valley on the list of the most haunted U.S. cities to escape to, the Holbrooke Hotel certainly has enough supernatural intrigue to pique even the most die-hard paranormal enthusiast's interest. There have been accounts of ghostly sightings over the years, according to author Mark Lyon (reported by Via), with Room 15 being particularly haunted. Previous guest claims include hearing a female phantom's voice in the Iron Door's bathroom; doors opening on their own; and sightings of cigar-smoking, Victorian-era apparitions and a disembodied cowboy ghost wandering about. If you're interested in learning more, book your spot on the Haunted by History tour, led by the hotel's resident historian and running during spooky season.
Staying and dining at the Holbrooke Hotel
At the Holbrooke, no two rooms are the same — each has its own unique character and design. But every room type comes with thoughtful amenities, including plush Italian linens, artisanal, locally-roasted coffee, premium bath and body products, a minibar, and a secure safe. The soft Mascioni bathrobes and lambs wool throw blankets are additional touches that will make you feel at home. However, what you won't find here are TVs; this is to encourage digital disconnection and also to maintain the hotel's peaceful atmosphere. For a truly sumptuous experience, book the Holbrooke King Suite (pictured above). Its warm brick interior, adorned with antiques and specially curated artwork, create an inviting, relaxing setting for your sojourn. Luxuriate in the large clawfoot tub with a good read and enjoy exquisite Grass Valley views from your balcony.
While you're free to head out at any time, the seasonal, flavor-filled dishes at the Golden Gate Saloon may tempt you to stay in. Try the juniper-crusted elk striploin or the fresh Alaskan spring halibut in lemon dressing. Or let the chef choose for you by reserving the four-course tasting menu. After your meal, head downstairs to the Iron Door, where you'll be treated to an assortment of signature cocktails, craft beers, and an extensive wine list.
The Holbrooke is located on Grass Valley's West Main Street. If you're flying in, the closest hub is in Sacramento, California's artsy "city of trees". The international airport (SMF) provides service from major cities like Los Angeles, Seattle, Phoenix, and Las Vegas, and it's an hour and 15 minutes from the hotel. As of this writing, midweek rates range from $159 to $299 per night, while weekend prices are between $189 and $679, depending on the season, room type, and other factors.