Italy's Medieval Mediterranean Gem Is A Charming Village With Peaceful Beaches Between Genoa And Nice

Along the Italian Riviera, it's the well-trodden paths that tend to dominate. But venture along the coast about 40 miles from Genoa, heading west towards Nice, and you'll find a quieter stretch of coastline where the villages and towns feel a little more local and are, for the most part, far less crowded. 

One of these villages is Noli, a seaside settlement of striking stone towers, cobbled alleyways, and calm Mediterranean beaches. Set on Liguria's Riviera di Ponente, Noli was, during the Middle Ages, an independent maritime republic and still carries traces of that long history today. Medieval walls wrap around parts of the old town, faded pastel houses with terracotta roofs lean over narrow lanes, and fishing boats line the waterfront beside sweeps of pretty beaches.

Despite regularly being listed among Italy's most beautiful villages (Borghi piu Belli d'Italia), Noli has avoided the overt polish of some better-known Italian Riviera destinations. Part of the reason for this is that the village remains slightly harder to reach as it doesn't sit directly on the main Genoa–Ventimiglia rail line. Instead, Noli offers a destination better suited to slower travel, taking in the historic architecture of churches, towers, and frescoed gates as well as walks along the promenade linking the beach to the old town.

Noli's old town opens almost straight onto the beach, creating a beguiling combination of medieval architecture and seaside atmosphere. The old town rises behind the rows of umbrellas punctuating the beach, while caruggi, the ambient narrow alleyways typical of Liguria, lead directly from quiet piazzas to the shoreline. Away from the water, Noli's medieval history remains remarkably intact. The Romanesque Church of San Paragorio dates back to the 11th century, while the ruins of Castello di Monte Ursino overlook Noli's scenic rooftops from a hill above town.

But one of Noli's most distinctive features is its skyline. During the Middle Ages, wealthy families competed to build ever-taller towers as symbols of power and prestige, creating a silhouette that looks a little like a miniature San Gimignano, a stunning Tuscan hill town. Several of the towers are still standing today, but only four remain in their original state, including the impressive Torre Ganduglia, operating as a unique holiday home with sea views from a charming roof terrace.

The beaches in Noli are a mix of soft sand and smooth pebbles along the calm waters of the Golfo dell'Isola that spans Noli, Spotorno, and Vezzi Portio. Spiaggia dei Pescatori, or Fishermen's Beach, is its most accessible stretch, where traditional wooden fishing boats sit pulled onto the shore beneath centuries-old buildings and a line of palms providing shade on hot summer days. Best of all, this swath of sand sees fewer crowds than more popular spots like Portofino, a destination Rick Steves recommends for a day trip, meaning you'll have room to spread out and bask in the Mediterranean sun.

Noli's location also makes it a convenient base to explore Liguria and the surrounding Mediterranean coast between Genoa and Nice. Just a few miles southwest lies Varigotti, a former fishing village known for its colorful seafront houses and the photogenic swish of beach at Baia dei Saraceni. You can reach it by walking from Noli on the Sentiero del Pellegrino (Pilgrims Trail), via cliffs, pine forests, hidden coves, and natural sights like the Grotta dei Falsari, a view-framing cave set into the cliffs of Capo Noli.

To get to Noli, it's typically best to arrive via Genoa, although journey times can be quite variable. The simplest rail route is via Genova Piazza Principe or Genova Brignole stations, where direct Trenitalia trains connect with the nearby Spotorno-Noli station in about an hour. From the Spotorno-Noli station, visitors can reach Noli by taxi or bus. Another option is the scenic coastal drive to or from beautiful Nice, France's sunny Riviera city, which takes around two hours, winding along the coastline.