Canada's Underrated Island Park In Ontario Has Beautiful Lake Superior Views
Around 450 million years ago, a large meteorite hit the Earth, creating a crater approximately 18 to 20 miles wide. Over the next several million years, that crater would slowly erode and shrink, while the land broke apart into separate continents. Today, gentle waves lap against rocky shores, while wild caribou slink between the trees in what is now known as the Slate Islands Provincial Park, around a 136-mile drive from Thunder Bay in Ontario, Canada.
Slate Islands Provincial Park is a 4.3-mile-wide archipelago in Lake Superior, 7.5 miles off the coast of Terrace Bay. Because of its distance from larger cities, it tends to fly under the radar. The park is best known for its undisturbed wilderness and uncrowded beaches with panoramic views of Lake Superior. It's made up of two main islands (Patterson Island and Mortimer Island) plus five smaller islands and a few rocky outcrops. It's theorized that a meteorite crater rebounded, forming an uplifted ridge that eventually turned into the islands we see today.
But the islands' extraterrestrial origins aren't the only interesting part of their history. During a cold winter in the early 1900s, a herd of wild caribou crossed over to the islands and never left. Explorations of the park shortly after resulted in tales of wild caribou walking right up to people in a way only animals with no predators act. However, the arrival of wolves in the winter of 2013-2014 led to the decimation of the Slate Islands caribou population. New caribou were transported from Michipicoten Island to rebuild the herds, but these inhabitants are shy and elusive like their mainland counterparts. For those heading to the islands today, the caribou are generally seen only in the hints they leave of their existence — an occasional hoof print or shadow that vanishes behind the trees.
Paddle through Slate Islands Provincial Park
The vast vistas across the stunningly clear waters of Lake Superior are best seen from a kayak. While the islands have undeveloped trails and scenic views, nothing beats the view from the water and the easy access it provides to the unique geology of the islands. The best part? You're unlikely to see another person in this cozy section of the lake. According to The Globe and Mail, "Paddling the Slates is like having a living museum all to yourself."
If the weather permits, you can paddle along the outer edges of the islands for unimpeded views of Lake Superior and its shores. For some of the most incredible panoramics of the lake, head to the southern edge of Patterson Island and dock at Sunday Harbour to hike up to the Slate Islands Lighthouse. It sits at a vantage point approximately 224 feet above the lake's surface, making it the highest-placed lighthouse on Lake Superior (per Lake Superior Magazine). While the lighthouse itself is closed to the public, the rocky shore it sits on provides unending views across the largest and deepest of America's stunning Great Lakes. Another must-see at the Slate Islands is the 33-foot-tall shatter cone at McGreevy Harbor on Patterson Island, which is the tallest known shatter cone in the world and the most definitive feature to support the meteor impact origin theory of the islands.
On days when the outer edges of the islands might be turbulent, the channel between Mortimer and Patterson Islands makes it easy to cross from one island to the other. According to Northern Ontario Travel, the deep waters and sheltered bays along the channel create a "lake within a lake" situation, which makes the waters around the Slate Islands much calmer than the open waters of Lake Superior.
Camping at Slate Islands Provincial Park, plus some tips
Slate Islands Provincial Park is a non-operating park, which means there are no visitor facilities like designated developed campsites, park staff, or guided activities. While there aren't any official campsites, locals have carved out spots along the islands over the years. Some of these campsites are in the interior parts of the Slates, making them ideal for those hoping to catch a glimpse of the elusive caribou or study the unique plants found here. Others lie along the islands' rocky shores and beaches, offering spectacular views across Lake Superior.
If you're looking for a campsite that's sheltered from Lake Superior's stormy weather, check out the "Come n' Rest" Cabin on McColl Island, one of the "minor" islands in the archipelago. This locked cabin provides a flat porch where you can set up your tent and lies within the sheltered channel between Mortimer Island and Patterson Island. You'll also find campsites near McGreevy Harbour on Patterson Island and Copper Harbour on Mortimer Island. There are no entry fees for Slate Islands Provincial Park, but non-Canadians have to purchase a Crown Land Camping Permit to stay overnight.
Kayaking to the island is only recommended for experienced paddlers, and you'll have to bring your own kayaks and anything else you'll need for backcountry camping. However, you can also take a boat shuttle or private charter to the islands from Terrace Bay, Rossport, or the charming railway town of Schreiber. Aim for a July or August trip to avoid the worst of Lake Superior's weather and pack a few extra meals in case you're forced to stay longer due to unsafe conditions on the lake.