Forget Waikiki, Visit This Gorgeous Town With Restaurants, Ranches, And The Island's Best Farmers Markets

Little Waimea, a name translating to "red waters" in Hawaiian, is cradled by pastoral kelly-green fields that may make visitors wonder if they were transported to Ireland or Napa Valley. Also known as Kamuela, as there are three locales across the state sharing the name Waimea, this centuries-old town was settled before the mainland's Gold Rush and is steeped in surprising history. Located on the Island of Hawaii, or the Big Island, 37 miles northeast of the Kona International Airport, Waimea is home to one of the largest cattle ranches in the U.S., Parker Ranch. 

Centrally located to many of the island's most intriguing sights, Waimea is near the birthplace of King Kamehameha the Great and Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site, a temple he constructed beginning in 1790. The town itself only has around 9,300 residents but boasts some of the best restaurants on the island, along with ranches to explore, and several bustling farmers markets taking place throughout the week. I know, as this is my home and every day, I awake grateful to live in such an exquisitely beautiful place. 

In the 1790s, seven cows were gifted to King Kamehameha, which led to Mexican vaqueros being brought to the island to teach wranglers how to handle cattle. In 1847, Parker Ranch and paniolos, or Hawaiian cowboys, were born. You can enjoy a self-guided walking tour of Parker Ranch and its verdant grounds and gardens, plus historic homes. 

Waimea is encompassed by volcanoes that formed the island, with stunning views of Mauna Kea, the world's tallest mountain — even taller than Everest — along with the world's biggest active volcano, Mauna Loa. Kohala, the oldest volcano (and extinct) on the island created the picturesque nearby Kohala Coast millennia ago and also acts as a backdrop for Waimea with a mountain road that winds through misty highlands, emerald pastures, and coastal views. 

Just 20 minutes up Kohala Mountain Road is Kahua Ranch, established in 1928, where the weekly Paniolo BBQ Dinner takes place and feeds guests a buffet-style of prime rib dinner or BBQ chicken after a welcome historical introduction with live music and plenty of ranch activities. Hundreds of Google reviews give the experience a 4.9 for views, food, and family fun. Back in town, find one of my favorite restaurants, Merriman's, which is touted as being the birthplace of Hawaiian regional cuisine thanks to its award-winning chef and owner Peter Merriman. Two of my fave places to grab a bite are The Fish and the Hog, with options ranging from heaping salads to hearty smoked barbecue platters, along with Pau Pizza and its sister restaurant in the same spot, Taco Rosa, where you can grab a slice of organic sourdough pie or local sweet-potato tacos, among other delectable items. 

One of Waimea's biggest draws is its four farmers markets, along with a storybook farm that sells produce practically right from its fields. The town is teeming with shoppers on Saturday mornings, when the Kamuela Farmers Market, Waimea Town Market, and Kuhio Hale Farmers Market take place starting at 7:30 a.m. All three are within about two miles of each other. Aside from farm-grown foods, you can find hand-crafted goods, such as art and jewelry, locally produced foods like macadamia nut pie and honey, fresh proteins, plus fruits and veggies you may never have seen before

Other markets are found at the idyllic Kekela Farms, where you can grab an actual woven basket and walk down the line of colorful produce grabbing what you need on Tuesdays and Saturdays, or head to the Pukalani Midweek Market on Wednesdays from 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Waimea also boasts a picture-perfect downtown strip with other shops once the markets close. 

Unlike Kaua'i's "Grand Canyon of the Pacific", which also bears the name Waimea, the Big Island town of Waimea is small enough to walk to many restaurants and farmers markets from central locations, such as the Kamuela Inn. Renting a car is a good idea to explore beyond Waimea, however. Head off in any direction to explore the rest of the island, then return to quiet, quaint, charming Waimea and taste all the Big Island has to offer.