Forget Banff — Visit Canada's Lesser-Known Mountain Gem With Fewer Crowds, Abandoned Mining Towns, And Scenic Trails
Alpine lakes, dramatic landscapes, abandoned mining towns, postcard-worthy hikes, the Canadian Rockies. These are all things you could say when describing Banff in a game of Taboo, but there's a lesser-known area that has all of these features, too: Crowsnest Pass. Located in southwest Alberta on the border of British Columbia, Crowsnest Pass is a mountain community comprised of five historic mining towns: Bellevue, Blairmore, Coleman, Frank, and Hillcrest. In the early 20th century, these contained some of Canada's most productive coalfields, but due to the shift away from coal, they're now fascinating testaments to the area's complicated past.
Crowsnest Pass has made some indelible marks on Canada's history. Head to the town of Frank to view the remnants of the 110 million tons of rocks deposited here during one of the country's biggest and deadliest landslides. Stroll through the picturesque Coleman, whose 20th-century buildings hide a seedy past: Crowsnest Pass' legendary rum-running during Alberta's Prohibition era.
This rich history combined with dreamy landscapes makes Crowsnest Pass a unique destination for those seeking an alternative to the ever-crowded Banff, Canada's most popular national park. Four million people a year visit Banff, while only 300,000 explore Crowsnest Pass, so you can experience mountain beauty on scenic trails without the crowds or hassle. Take Western Canada's only underground mine tour and climb to the top of a stunning peak. Relax on the shores of blue alpine lakes or under the cooling mist of impressive waterfalls in this gem of the Canadian Rockies.
Experience mining history in Crowsnest Pass
While Banff also has a history of mining, as exemplified by the ghost town of Bankhead hidden in the mountains, this industry was truly at the heart of Crowsnest Pass. For a Bankhead-esque abandoned town, visit the Leitch Collieries Provincial Historic Site, a little over 2 miles east of Bellevue. It showcases the only Canadian-owned coal mine at the time. Wander through the remnants of this once-thriving settlement that was one of the area's biggest operations during its short life from 1907 to 1915. A few minutes away is the Bellevue Underground Mine, which you can experience by taking an interactive tour. Don an authentic miner's hat as you go 150 feet below the ground for an hour-long guided tour to immerse yourself in this subterranean world. The underground path is accessible for strollers and wheelchairs, so this is a great activity for all.
Another way to walk in the footsteps of miners is to head to Coleman, about 15 minutes northwest, where you can explore the ruins of a coal plant and coke ovens. But to truly understand the human toll of this industry, make your way to Hillcrest, where 189 men died in a massive explosion in 1914, Canada's worst mining accident to date. Nearly all were immigrants from Europe, and they're buried at Hillcrest Cemetery, which has a memorial that you can visit.
Enjoying outdoor adventures in Crowsnest Pass
Crowsnest Pass has unique and striking geology. Towering over the town of Frank is the impressive Turtle Mountain. The steep and difficult 4.3-mile hike along Turtle Mountain Trail to the summit offers awesome, panoramic vistas of Crowsnest Pass. To learn more about this event, proceed to the Frank Slide Interpretive Centre, one of the area's top attractions open year-round. And circling the center is a less-challenging 1-mile loop that winds through the debris from the aforementioned landslide of 1903.
Window Mountain Lake is one of Crowsnest Pass' best and most popular options. Hike almost 5 miles out and back (less if you have a 4WD for the dirt road to the trailhead) to this crystal-clear alpine lake surrounded by mountains on three sides. And for even more exquisite views, check out Lundbreck Falls Provincial Recreation Area. Although near the highway, this impressive double-waterfall cascades all year and offers an easy, family-friendly hike and a glacial swim. Coleman also offers peaceful treks with a bit of history woven in. The short, paved Miners' Path is a lush, 1-mile out-and-back trail that leads to Rainbow Falls and follows the route that hundreds of miners walked to the McGillivray Mine from 1909 to 1957. Those wanting a greater challenge can try a longer loop that takes you above the waterfall along a coal-dust-covered path.
The best way to reach and get around Crowsnest Pass is by car since there's no public transit. Alberta is home to one of the world's most scenic road trips, so it's no surprise that Highway 3, which leads to Crowsnest Pass, is an impressive route passing through foothills and forests. Calgary, Canada's hub for country music and rodeos, is just over 2.5 hours away and has the closest major international airport (YYC).