Between Venice And Milan Is A Sun-Soaked Resort Town With Historic Charm, Lake Views, And Laid-Back Vibes
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Italy, a country that oozes history, unforgettable art, and world-renowned cuisine, is naturally one of the most visited countries in the world. Tourists flock there each year to experience, if only briefly, the coveted "dolce vita" — "the sweet life" – a philosophy centered on simple pleasures, slowing down, and taking in the beauty of the land. Far from the summer crowds of Rome, Florence, and Venice, one of the best places to embrace that lifestyle is the layered and verdant province of Brescia. If you're seeking to experience the quintessential Italian summer holiday with views of the Alps, the town of Desenzano del Garda fits the bill.
Hugging the southern shore of the iconic Lake Garda, Desenzano sits a comfortable 20-minute train ride from Verona and less than an hour from Milan. As you enter the province of Brescia, you'll be treated to a landscape rich in diverse sights, from the fairy-tale towns and resorts resting along the lakeshore to rolling vineyards and mountains rising to the north. With temperatures generally staying above 70 degrees Fahrenheit from early April through late September, Desenzano is a sun-soaked destination that gives you more than enough time to work on a tan.
The old town center effortlessly blends bright architecture with a storied past that is impossible to ignore, from medieval fortifications to a preserved Roman villa. As you find yourself strolling along its shaded alleys lined with colorful houses or admiring postcard-worthy views from Castello di Desenzano del Garda, it's easy to understand why so many visitors decide to linger.
Historic charm that's impossible to reproduce
Romans, Lombards, Venetians and others have coveted this Lake District, a "heaven-sent" region in the shadows of the Alps. In Desenzano, historic charm is visible throughout the town, with the Roman Villa serving as one of its important landmarks. Located a stone's throw away from the lakeshore at Via Crocefisso 22, its well-preserved ruins date to the fourth century. The site is of particular archaeological importance thanks to its exceptionally preserved mosaic floors, a vast collection of artifacts preserved in its Antiquarium museum, and its supposed link to Flavius Magnus Decentius, brother of Emperor Magnentius, from whom the town's name is thought to derive.
A 10-minute stroll uphill brings you nearly a millennium in time to Castello di Desenzano. Perched on top of a hill with views of the marina and the mountains across the blue lake, the castle evolved from an earlier watchtower and fort; its walls kept the inhabitants of the area safe throughout the region's dynamic history. Consistently restored over the past several decades, it is open to the public from May until October from 9:30 a.m., Tuesday through Sunday, with various closing hours.
As your footsteps slow down and begin to match the leisurely rhythm of the town, you may find yourself naturally drawn to relax. The Old Port is a suitable candidate for such activity, serving as the nerve center of the town since at least the 13th century. You can sit down in the shade of the arcade at Caffè San Giuda while watching the pleasure boats bob in the harbor and soaking in the atmosphere rich in Venetian influence.
Lake Garda and laid-back living
After immersing yourself in the charm of Desenzano, it is time to explore the jewel of the town: Lake Garda. One of the best places to start is the lakeside promenade, known as the Passeggiata Lungo Lago. Manicured flower beds, fountains, and scenic piers abound, along with the town's lighthouse at the tip of the breakwater. To the east of it, the Passeggiata Al Lago stretches for miles along the shore, offering views of the lake and beyond.
If staying ashore isn't enough, grabbing a ferry to visit neighboring Sirmione and its fairy-tale castle is highly recommended, especially if you intend on staying in Desenzano del Garda for a few days. You will also find boat tour operators offering excursions to the neighboring areas, such as Rocca di Manerba and the Gulf of Salò. The tours last roughly two hours, with commentary in English readily available.
When it comes to laid-back vibes and a splash of hedonism with your glass of Franciacorta from the best sparkling wine region, Desenzano delivers inviting places to stay. Hotel Villa Rosa holds prime real estate right by the Desenzanino Beach, with all the luxuries expected of a 4-star hotel with a 4.7-star rating on Google. Should you be traveling lightly, and in search of humbler accommodations with the welcoming atmosphere of the backpacker community, The Way Home, a bed and breakfast project focused on connection, boasts an "exceptional" rating of 9.8 on Booking.com. Desenzano del Garda may leave you with another endearing Italian philosophy, that of "dolce far niente". Translated as the "sweetness of doing nothing", it is as laid-back as it gets.