On The Scottish Border Is An English Town With Fresh Seafood, Fun Shops, And Historic Charm

Just a mile south of the Scottish border, the English town of Berwick-upon-Tweed is a coastal settlement steeped in history. Its precarious border location means that it once changed hands frequently during centuries of conflict. Control passed between the Scots and the English on more than a dozen occasions until 1482, when England captured it for the final time, per the Friends of Berwick and District Museum and Archives. Today, Berwick-upon-Tweed is a great place to learn about this turbulent English-Scottish border history, while enjoying fresh seafood and independent shops that have helped make this Northumberland town so popular.

Sitting on the banks of the River Tweed, Berwick is known for its three iconic bridges, which span the centuries, as well as the river. The Old Bridge was built in the early 1600s, while the most recent — the Royal Tweed Bridge — appeared during the 1920s. A photogenic viaduct completes the trio, and if you arrive by train from the south, you'll enjoy a ride across the river, passing these icons. It's a great introduction to this charming historic town.

If you're here for the day, you'll find plenty to see and do, with several tourist attractions, cozy local eateries, quirky stores, and cobblestone streets to enjoy. Berwick makes a great base for exploring the wider Northumberland area, too, with a range of accommodation options from Georgian townhouses to boutique hotels. 

Being a coastal county, Northumberland is renowned for its seafood, with Berwick-upon-Tweed playing a significant part in the industry. It prospered as a port town in the 12th and 13th centuries, with Tweed salmon and herring being key exports. The tradition of salmon fishing is still active here hundreds of years later, and seafood continues to take center stage on many menus in the town's restaurants and cafés. If you're here in summer, you might get to see the fishing boats in action down by the Old Bridge.

For traditional English fish and chips, Coulls Fish Restaurant is a Berwick-upon-Tweed staple in a cute, casual pub. Foxton's Wine Bar and Restaurant serves up fresh seafood platters, moules frites, and crayfish — all freshly caught the same day. For lunch, the open crab sandwich at Lowry's at the Chandlery is a must-have, perfect after a busy morning of sightseeing. If you're day tripping farther afield, the Scottish cliff-top village of St. Abbs is another haven off the tourist radar, also offering fresh seafood and coastal views just north of the border.

It's also fun to indulge in a bit of retail therapy as you wander around Berwick's old streets. There are plenty of independent shops and eclectic boutiques, selling everything from local produce and souvenirs to antiques and crystals. Pop into The Seagull's Nest for coastal-themed gifts and local goodies, or browse The Book Loft for literary treasures. There's also the witch-inspired Pyewacket, where you can stock up on tarot cards and incense. If you're in town on Wednesday or Saturday, you'll get to experience the town's outdoor market, where you can sample baked goods, like cheesy breads and sausage rolls, or treat yourself to local artisanal crafts. 

Beyond eating and shopping, there's lots to discover in Berwick-upon-Tweed. The town is packed with historic sights, so if you're into British heritage, you'll enjoy exploring this ancient settlement. One of the main activities is a walk along the Elizabethan Walls. These 16th-century defensive ramparts run for over a mile around the town, and you can stroll along the top to explore the artillery bastions, see the medieval castle remains, and take in the coastal scenery. The elevation also gives you great views of the old Berwick Barracks, which were built after the 1715 Jacobite uprising, per Undiscovered Scotland.

Back down in the center, the historic town hall is home to the old jail where you can check out the prison cells and hunt for 18th-century graffiti left by the inmates. Wandering through the town, you'll notice several rows of elegant Georgian houses, showing where the more prosperous residents used to live. These historic streets make Berwick a popular filming location, as it has been featured in movies like "Outlaw King" and "The Railway Man."

Berwick-upon-Tweed is easy to reach by train, with its own station on the East Coast Main Line. It's just a short walk into the town center from here. Located in Northumberland, Berwick-upon-Tweed is just one of several historic settlements to explore in the area. England's northernmost county is also known for its scenic landscapes and castles, so it makes sense to spend a few days touring around the sights. There's also just 57 miles between Berwick and the gorgeous Scottish city of Edinburgh, with endless fun-filled events, to the north, which is perfect for a day trip or an extended stay in the region.