Vermont's Oldest State Park Is An Idyllic Mountaintop Gem With Lake Views And Trails Near The NY Border
In many ways, Mt. Philo is the underdog of Vermont mountains. At a mere 968 feet above sea level, it's not the tallest peak in the state, nor even in the top five. Philo stands by itself, separate from the rest of the Green Mountains that give Vermont its name. Even the name is kind of funny; unlike other local high points, like "Mt. Mansfield" and "Killington Peak," Philo is Greek for "loving," and may remind visitors of "phyllo," the flaky pastry dough.
But if you're a casual day-hiker with limited time, Mt. Philo may offer the biggest bang for your buck in the whole state. It's easy to reach, fun to ascend, and yields a spectacular view from its top. The western loop is only about 2 miles long, and even if you're not in tip-top shape, you can probably hike the whole thing and return to your car in under two hours. Philo stands roughly in the middle of the Champlain Valley, only around 30 minutes from Burlington, the state's largest settlement and one of the safest cities in the United States. While many Vermont mountains just give you vistas of other summits in the Green Mountain State, Philo treats hikers to an idyllic panorama of the Adirondack range of Upstate New York.
Just in front of those mountains is Lake Champlain, a sizable body of water that marks the border between Vermont and New York State. The part you can see from Philo's top is about 3 miles across, and on sunny days the water shimmers visibly. The lake is the valley's namesake, and Vermonters take great pride in their agrarian western lowlands.
Hiking and heritage on Mt. Philo
Visitors drive Mt. Philo Road to the main parking area and trailhead. What's nice about the looping layout is that you are unlikely to double-back; the forested landscape is fresh from beginning to end. As is typical of Vermont woods, the trunks and branches are densely packed, and warm-weather hikers won't see very far until they get to the top. The total elevation gain is around 600 feet, which is definitely a climb, but the well-marked path and stone steps make this a reasonable ascent. Do remember to bring water, especially on muggy summer days, as well as insect repellent; Vermont mosquitoes are no joke.
At the top is a shelf of land, like a naturally formed observation deck, with some protective fencing. What spreads out before you is truly awesome — an unobstructed view of fields and forest, ribbons of water and mountains billowing across the distant horizon. Here, Vermont, New York, and Québec Province all merge into one borderless landscape. If you're already on a Vermont road trip in search of scenic views and small-town stops, Mt. Philo is a must.
While it's hard to imagine now, Mt. Philo once stood on private property. Around the turn of the 20th century, well-heeled guests stayed at the Mt. Philo Inn, a building that still stands just south of the park; they could arrange to ride a horse-drawn buggy up a specially built carriage road. This was a nice novelty for tourists in top hats, but the mountain's last proprietress, Frances Humphreys, decided to donate these lands to the state of Vermont in 1924, making Mt. Philo State Park possible. Originally 150 acres, it has since expanded to 237 acres.
Getting to Mt. Philo State Park and where to stay
Mt. Philo makes for a great first-day experience: It's only 20 miles or so from Burlington International Airport (BTV), so if you're flying into Vermont, you can start hiking within an hour of firing up your rental car. Charlotte is a lakeside town of farmland, preserves, and covered bridges, such as the Seguin Bridge. There aren't many stores or restaurants out this way, which is just how many visitors will prefer it. Instead, you've got country roads, boundless nature, and a network of trails, of which Mt. Philo is only one.
Most travelers will stay in one of the nearby towns, such as Middlebury, a storybook college town with cute shops and New England charm. But if you're reluctant to leave Mt. Philo and don't mind sleeping on the ground, the state park actually maintains seven tent sites and three lean-tos. These do cost something to use: The tent sites are $38 for non-residents, and the lean-tos are $49 per night. But they're an economical alternative to Vermont's famous B&Bs, and you can't beat the scenery.