Georgia's Once-Thriving Seaport Is Now A Quiet Coastal Ghost Town Day Trip With A Trail And Nearby Fresh Seafood

Ghost towns leave visitors with fragmentary clues to fill in the gaps of what once stood there — perhaps an overgrown road through a stretch of woods or crumbling foundations. In Sunbury, Georgia, those clues come in the form of a cemetery with markers dating to the 18th century and earthwork remnants that hint at the town once being important enough to warrant defense. 

In fact, Sunbury was colonial Georgia's second-biggest shipping center in its heyday, before war, natural disaster, and a changing economy emptied it. Today, much of the old town site is a coastal landscape of live oaks and salt marshes on the tidal Medway River, just a few miles from the Atlantic Ocean. Sunbury is about 45 minutes south of Savannah, making for a convenient day trip to explore a trail through its historic fort site or stop for a plate of fresh steamed crabs.

Sunbury began as a practical seaport for nearby settlers. Founded in 1758, it was almost on par with Savannah commercially, and its location also made it important during the American Revolution, when Fort Morris was built at its river edge to protect the port. But Sunbury's fortunes didn't last, in part because of the war. The British Army captured Fort Morris in 1779, and the town never fully recovered. A few final blows snuffed out any chance of Sunbury's persistence: A hurricane struck the town in 1804, and it faced economic decline. It was largely abandoned by the 1830s, leaving just a few traces of road, the cemetery, and the fort in a now-calm setting.

When you reach Sunbury, there won't be a busy main street waiting to greet you, and much of the former port has disappeared into wilderness. A few historic markers point out where elements of the town once stood, like Old Sunbury Road, part of which still remains in use from the 1790s. Live oaks hung with Spanish moss give the area a signature coastal Georgia look, while surrounding marshes provide a habitat for numerous birds, like downy woodpeckers and great egrets. Past visitors have often described the solitude of the Fort Morris State Historic Site and surrounding marshes. "Peaceful and relaxing site for a family picnic!" one Google Maps reviewer wrote.

You can go into the Fort Morris site for just $5, and less for those 62 and older or 17 and younger. It occupies a bluff overlooking the Medway River, with preserved earthworks that defended Sunbury during the Revolutionary War. Unlike other coastal Georgia sites like Fort McAllister State Park, another historic fort that sprawls over 1,700 acres, Fort Morris takes up a compact 66 acres. A 0.6-mile nature trail passes earthwork vestiges and also has some nice views of the coastal marsh and river. The site is part of Georgia's Colonial Coast Birding Trail, too, with binoculars and a field guide available to borrow at the visitor center.

Modern-day Sunbury may be a quiet outpost taken over by nature, but one thing gives it a little more than scarce ruins: seafood. The nearest seafood spot is Sunbury Crab Company, a family-run restaurant that harvests its own crabs and oysters from the Medway River. Its steamed blue crabs are a menu staple and a hit among previous diners. "If you enjoy blue crabs and seafood this is the best spot to go," a Google Maps reviewer wrote. The restaurant has an upstairs covered deck with views across the waterfront. 

Two more casual seafood options are in downtown Midway, about a 15-minute drive from Sunbury. One is Captain Joe's Seafood, Midway's top-ranked restaurant on Tripadvisor (it also has a location in Baxley, Georgia's charming town with unmatched brisket). Meanwhile, Melody's Coastal Cafe offers a more eclectic menu with everything from fried oyster po'boys to shrimp-loaded nachos, and gets good marks, too, with an average of 4.5 stars from over 1,500 reviewers on Google Maps.

You could always catch your own dinner in Sunbury if you've got a knack for fishing. Sunbury Charters and Flat Out Guide Service, both based in Sunbury, operate fishing trips for first-time and experienced anglers alike. Or there's the Sunbury Boat Ramp & Pier, a public pier you can fish from without booking a charter or hauling a boat. Liberty County lists redfish, trout, and black drum among typical catches here. If you're not ready to leave the wild coast behind afterward, you could boat offshore to St. Catherines Island, a barrier island with a stunning beach and unusual wildlife south of Sunbury.