Oregon's Wave-Smashed Coastal State Park Has Epic Cliff Walks, Wildlife Viewing, And Secluded Coves
If you like your coastline secluded, wild, and off the typical tourist trail, the South Coast of Oregon is particularly enticing. It covers, roughly speaking, the area between the California state line in the south and Winchester Bay in the north. It's in the midst of that untrodden area where you'll find the sheer wonder that is Cape Arago State Park, where the land is carved into jagged sea rocks, sea lions bathe in the coves below, and the views are simply sublime.
One of just a string of alluring parks and reserves that pepper this salt-washed sector of the Beaver State, Cape Arago packs quite the punch. It's split into two halves, with a north part that has sweeping panoramas over the kelp-fringed cliffs and shoals, and a historic cove that you can hike all the way down to on its south side. Keep your eyes peeled at all times, for the park isn't just a part of the vast Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, which protects big marine beasts and migratory seabirds alike, but also a stop on the Whale Trail, a collection of whale-watching hotspots all around the Pacific Northwest.
There's only one way in and one way out of Cape Arago State Park, since it sits, somewhat appropriately, you might say, at the very end of the highway. That highway is the Cape Arago Highway, or Oregon Route 540, and it can take you from the underrated artsy city of Coos Bay to this rugged set of coves in just under half an hour. International arrivals will likely land at Portland International (PDX) and then cruise down via Interstate 5 and the scenic Highway 38, which takes just over four hours in total.
Coastal hikes you won't forget at Cape Arago State Park
You've got two main trails to pick from within Cape Arago State Park: one to the north, one to the south. The first is a super-short 0.2-miler that takes you to an overlook from the parking lot, dropping nearly 60 feet to get you right onto the edge of the Pacific Ocean. It's the perfect option if you came here to see the native wildlife, but more on that later. One thing to note is that the North Cove Trail is closed between March and the end of June to protect the seal pups that gather there.
The south route, meanwhile, clocks up just a touch more distance as it zigzags down the headland's opposite side. It's the gateway to a little inlet where, some say, a certain Sir Francis Drake anchored his boats back in the 1500s. Don't worry: Today you're more likely to find fascinating rock pools than cannon-touting British explorers.
There are other hiking options, too. Those up for a bit more of a challenge might want to consider the longer Simpson Reef Loop Trail. At 3.4 miles, it's more of a hefty day-hike option that loops you through the heart of the Cape Arago State Park, along with big sections of the neighboring Shore Acres State Park, where access to Simpson Beach means fantastic storm watching during the wild-weather months. There's also an even-longer point-to-point coastal trail that skirts the whole of Cape Arago running north, clocking up nearly 9 miles as it oscillates between sandy beaches and high clifftop overlooks.
Meet the locals at Cape Arago State Park
You shouldn't have to venture far to get glimpses of some iconic creatures at Cape Arago State Park. In fact, the viewpoint over Simpson Reef is a fine place to start your marine safari, and that actually sits on the highway leading into the park itself. Pull over to find information panels that outline the menagerie of seals and sea lions that can be spotted from here. You'll be looking out over a jagged series of rocks and reefs that make up the northernmost pupping location for elephant seals in the whole U.S., just one part of the greater sweep of thousands of islands that make up Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge.
There are whales, too. Yep, just as in Oregon's whale-watching capital of Depoe Bay further north up the Pacific Coast, visitors can spy out gray whales, humpbacks, and even orcas. The Oregon Coast Visitors Association singles out the reefs around Cape Arago State Park as a prime place to see gray whales during the traditional low season of summer. Watch as the colossal beasts give away their position off the cape by emerging from the depths to spout out in the ocean.
And it's not just the big, galumphing coast mammals that draw the crowds to this reserve. One past visitor, writing on Google Maps, sums up how Cape Arago State Park is a doozy for lovers of smaller sea critters to boot: "Seriously, the best tide pools I've ever seen in Oregon. Make sure to go at low tide and explore. I see something new and cool every time I go." Indeed, the tidal zones that await on the south trail are supposed to be especially good, showcasing everything from anemones to mini sea crabs.